Wild Tiled West Rulebook

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

• Game Components
• Setup
• Overview
• Gameplay
  • Mining Income
  • Drafting Rounds
    • Roll and Place Dice
    • Drafting a Tile
      • Claim Jumping
      • Placing Tiles
    • Move the Round Marker
  • Tussle
    • Hill Bandits
• Scoring Points
  • Mining
  • Partners
  • Trailblazing
  • Aces
  • Completing a Town
  • Buildings
  • Wrangling
  • Sheriffs and Bandits
• Endgame
• Strategy Tips
• Wild Sides
  • Carpenters
  • House in Danger
  • Pocket Aces
  • Rope Trick
  • Signpost
• Solo Play
  • Solo Setup
  • Solo Gameplay
• Building Guide
• Icon Guide
• Credits

Game Components

• 4 Tile trays (placed as 2 combined tile trays during play)
• 8 Double-sided settlement boards
• Scoreboard
• 5 Mining tracks
• 1 First player marker
• 4 Cattle contracts
• 5 +50/+100 point tokens
• 30 Gold
• 25 Alleys
• 2 River dice (8-sided)
• 35 Bullets/tombstones
• 15 Cowpokes
• 4 Prairie dice (20-sided)
• 4 Ace cards
• 16 Partner cards
• 10 Discs in 5 player colors (2 for each player: 1 Mining marker, 1 Score marker)
• 15 Hill bandits
• 5 Helper cards
• 1 Round marker

Used in a Solo Game

• 1 Bandit Ridge card
• 12 Bandit cards

Setup

A1 — Place the four tile trays in the center of your play area, referring to the numbers on their edges.

The tray with 1-2 on the top edge should be on the left, directly above the tray with 3-4 on the bottom edge, forming a single combined tray. The tray with 5-6 on the top edge should be on the right, directly above the tray with 7-8 on the bottom edge, forming a second combined tray.

A2 — Place the scoreboard above the tile trays, with the 2+ player side face up (as indicated by the icon at the top right).

B — Place the four cattle contracts at random on the four contract spaces on the scoreboard. Place the sides with the larger rewards face up.

For your first game, place the cattle contracts on their spaces in the following order from left to right: alleys, gold, bullets, and points.

C1 — Place the hill bandits, alleys, gold, bullets, cowpokes, and +50/+100 point tokens in a common supply area that all players can access.

C2 — Place the dice you'll be using near the tile trays (see chart below). Set the other dice aside in the game box; you will not use them this game.

	2 Players	3 Players	4 Players	5 Players
Prairie dice (green, 20-sided)	2	2	3	4
River dice (blue, 8-sided)	1	2	2	2

C3 — Place the round marker on the scoreboard, on the mine cart near the top left.

C4 — Place the four ace cards face up in the supply.

For your first game, fill the trays with the tiles shown at the bottom of each of the 40 slots. Each slot will hold a stack of 2 or 3 tiles.

At the end of each game, return the tiles to the trays and then secure them with the included lid. This will allow faster setup of your next game. (If you wish to optimize for your preferred player count, you can store some of the tiles in the box.)

D — Each player takes their personal components:

D1 — Take a settlement board and place it in front of you. Each board has two sides: a normal side with better bonus spaces, and a "wild side" with unique rules. (Each wild side has a difficulty rating indicated by 1 or 2 sheriff stars in the top right corner.)

If this is your first game, you should choose the normal side of the board. Otherwise, choose whichever side you prefer.

D2 — Place a mining track alongside your settlement board.

D3 — Take a helper card (showing In Game Scoring on one side and Endgame Scoring on the other).

D4 — Place your mining marker on the bottom space of your track and your score marker on the start space of the score track on the scoreboard (each player begins with 5 points).

E — Shuffle the stack of partner cards and place it face down alongside the scoreboard to form the partner deck.

Deal each player two cards from the deck. Everyone selects one of their two cards to keep (face down, near their settlement board) and discards the other face down. Return the discarded cards to the partner deck and shuffle it. Then, deal three partner cards from the deck face up into the supply.

F — Determine a first player randomly. They take the first player marker.

2 Players — Remove one tile from every stack along the outer edge of each combined tile tray. (28 tiles in total.) Return them to the game box; you will not use them this game.

3 Players — Remove one tile from each stack along the left and right edges of each tile tray. (20 tiles in total. Don't remove any tiles on the river.) Return them to the game box; you will not use them this game. Also, the player who will go last in the first round takes 1 gold from the supply.

5 Players — Place the round marker on the scoreboard one space to the right of the mine cart. (But all players will still take Mining Income at the start of Year 1.)

Overview

Wild Tiled West is broken up into four "years." Each year, you'll earn income from your gold mines, then spend several rounds building your settlement by drafting and placing tiles. At the end of each year, you'll tussle with other players to have the safest settlement.

You can gain points by building towns, wrangling cows, mining, and fighting off bandits. At the end of the game, the player with the most points is the winner!

Gameplay

Each year consists of three parts: Mining Income, Drafting Rounds, and a Tussle.

Mining Income

At the start of each year (as shown by the mining cart on the scoreboard), you earn gold from mining equal to the value next to the marker on your mining track. In Year 1, that's 2 gold for all players. Take your gold from the supply and put it next to your settlement board.

You can increase your future earnings by gaining pickaxes, which move your mining marker up the track.

Year 4 works differently. You may choose to take Mining Income as usual, or you may take only 1 gold but also get 2 pickaxes, advancing two spaces up your mining track.

Drafting Rounds

After everyone collects Mining Income for the year, you'll play a number of Drafting Rounds, according to the scoreboard. (Each orange arrow space represents a Drafting Round, as does the mine cart where the round marker begins the game.) There are three steps in each Drafting Round: Roll and Place Dice, take turns Drafting a Tile, and lastly Move the Round Marker to the next space on the scoreboard.

Roll and Place Dice

To begin each Drafting Round, the first player rolls all the dice and then, according to the results, places them on the matching numbered slots along the edges of the tiles trays. (All players may help with placing them.) The 20-sided prairie dice are placed in the slots along the left and right edges of the tile trays, while the 8-sided river dice are placed in the slots on the river.

• If two or more dice would be placed on the same number, place only one on that number, and the rest on the next numbers in sequence instead. For example, if you roll three 11s, place one die on 11, one on 12, and one on 13. If a die that needs to be moved is showing its highest possible value, change it to a 1.
• If a die is ever on an entirely empty row or column (with no tiles in it), place that die on the next number in sequence instead. (Note: This can occasionally cause a die to move during a round.)
  • It's fine if the stack nearest to a die is empty. Only move the die if its entire row or column is empty.

Johnny rolls 4 and 17 on the prairie dice and two 8s on the river dice. He places the two prairie dice in their corresponding slots along the sides of the tile trays. He places one of the river dice in the "8" river slot. Since that slot now has a die, the other 8 will now be placed on the next number in sequence. Because 8 is the highest value on the die, Johnny changes it to a 1 and places it in the "1" river slot.

Drafting a Tile

After dice have been rolled and placed, each player (starting with the first player and proceeding clockwise), takes a turn drafting one of the available tiles, paying any cost shown on the tile tray and placing it on their settlement board.

The dice indicate which tile stacks you are eligible to draft from: each die allows you to draft from the nearest stack in its row (for prairie dice) or column (for river dice). If the stack nearest to the die is empty, you may select from the next stack in that row or column with at least one tile in it.

To draft from an eligible tile stack, remove the related die from the tile tray. Set the die aside next to the tile trays and place the tile you drafted on your settlement board. (See the placement rules on the next page.) That die can't be used to draft another tile this round. If a stack is eligible because of more than one die, you choose which die to remove.

Some tiles show a gold cost on the tile tray, next to their stack. To draft such a tile, you must first pay that cost by returning that much of your gold to the supply.

Tiles have all kinds of features to help your settlement grow, as well as some dangers. These are described in the Scoring Points section.

Claim Jumping

When you use a river die to draft a tile, you may pay 1 gold to claim jump along the river, skipping over the nearest tile stack to instead take a tile from the next stack in that column.

• You may only use river dice to claim jump, along the river.
• You must still pay any gold costs for the tile you jump to.
• The die is removed as usual.
• You may claim jump over multiple stacks, paying 1 gold for each jump. You don't need to pay to jump an empty stack.

Becca is drafting. She has 1 gold and several options. She could use river die A to take tile 1. Or she could pay 1 gold and use that same die to claim jump over tile 1 and take tile 2 instead.

Becca could instead choose to take a tile using river die B. Because the nearest tile stack is empty, the die lets her draft tile 3, which costs 1 gold. While this die could be used to claim jump, Becca doesn't have enough gold—it would cost 1 gold to claim jump to tile 4 and another 2 gold to pay for the tile itself (note the cost on the tile tray).

Finally, Becca could take tile 5 using prairie die C. She can't claim jump with die C, however—only river dice may do that.

Placing Tiles

After you draft your tile, place it on your settlement board. The first tile you place each game must cover the crossed pickaxes symbol. ALL tiles you place must follow these rules:

• They cannot cover cows, fields, hills, or mines on your settlement board.
• They cannot overlap the edge of your settlement board or each other.
• They may be flipped and/or rotated into any orientation.
• All tiles except the first must be connected to your starting tile—either directly, or through an unbroken series of connected tiles. Two tiles are connected if they share an edge (not a corner).
  • Note: Each cow and field printed on your settlement board is also connected to any tile that shares a side (not a corner) with it. An unbroken connection between tiles can continue through those cows and fields.

Tiles A and B are connected to each other, as are tiles A and C. Tiles B and C share only a corner, but they are connected through tile A. Tile C is also connected to pasture D, which is printed on the board. The next tile placed could be connected to A, B, C, or D.

Free Alleys—On your turn, instead of drafting a tile from the tile trays, you may instead build one or two alleys. Take them from the supply and place them on your settlement board using the normal placement rules. If you build two alleys, they must be adjacent to each other!

Gold, bullet, and alley icons on your settlement board are bonus spaces. When you cover a bonus space with a tile, immediately take that bonus from the supply.

Gold, bullet, and alley icons on a tile represent a bonus you gain (also from the supply) when you place that tile on your settlement board.

When you gain an alley as a bonus, place it immediately on your settlement board.

Move the Round Marker

After each player has drafted and placed a tile in the Drafting Round, the first player passes the first player marker clockwise to the next player, then moves the round marker to the next space on the track. If the round marker hasn't yet reached the Tussle icon at the end of the year, then begin a new Drafting Round with the new first player.

Tussle

Some tiles have bandits on them, as does your settlement board. After the Drafting Rounds, each year ends with a Tussle as these bandits stir up trouble. Each player announces the number of bandits on their settlement board (including on the tiles they have placed there, but excluding bandits who have been shot as described in Bullets and Bandits). Then you check the Tussle icon (on the scoreboard) for the current year.

• The player (or players) with the most bandits loses the points shown.
• The player (or players) with the fewest bandits gains the points shown. They also place a hill bandit from the supply on their settlement board (unless it's Year 4).
  • If ALL players tie with the same number of bandits, no one loses points. Everyone wins, gaining points and a hill bandit.

After resolving the Tussle (except in Year 4), move the round marker on the scoreboard to the first space of the next year (marked with a mining cart). Begin a new year with Mining Income, followed by Drafting Rounds and another Tussle.

The number of bandits on each player's settlement board is open information that you may seek at any time.

It's the Year 2 Tussle. Devin has one bandit, Johnny has five, and Becca has three. Johnny, with the most, loses the Tussle and loses 3 points. Becca neither gains nor loses points. Devin has the fewest and wins the Tussle, gaining 3 points. She also adds a hill bandit to her settlement board.

Hill Bandits

Hill bandits are wily. Lack of competition draws them to the safest settlements, where they hide out in the hills. Whenever you win a Tussle, take a hill bandit token from the supply and place it on any unoccupied hill space on your settlement board.

Hill bandits aren't tiles and won't help you make connections to place a new tile.

Scoring Points

There are a variety of ways to score points. Whenever you gain or lose points, move your score marker in the appropriate direction around the score track.

If you reach 50 points, take one of the +50/+100 point tokens from the supply and place it in front of you with the +50 side face up. If you reach 100 points, flip it over.

Mining

The mining track shows how much gold you're digging up each year.

Each time you cover a pickaxe on your settlement board with a tile, you have claimed the adjacent mine. Advance your mining marker one space up the mining track.

The higher you go, the more gold you'll earn each year during Mining Income, and the more bonus points you'll score during the Endgame!

The fourth space on your mining track represents an opportunity to earn a second partner card (as described in the Partners section below).

There are a few other ways to earn pickaxes, such as from buildings. The effect is always the same: for each pickaxe, move up one space on your mining track.

Partners

Partners create additional opportunities to earn points by meeting certain conditions by the Endgame. You gain your first partner during setup of the game. You earn a second one when you advance your mining marker to the fourth space of the mining track (marked with a hat). Choose one:

• Take your choice of one of the three face-up partners from the supply, then replace it by revealing a new partner from the top of the deck.
• Take the top card of the partner deck, without looking at it first.

Either way, place your choice face up next to your settlement board (keeping the partner you gained in setup face down).

Trailblazing

Horseshoes on your settlement board represent key paths to blaze with your tiles. At the end of the game, you'll lose 1 point for each uncovered horseshoe remaining, so try to cover as many as you can while placing tiles!

Aces

Some tiles have aces on them. These come in four suits (colors) and are worth points at the Endgame:

• Matching sets: Each set of three aces of matching color is worth 6 points, while each set of four is worth 12 points.
• Different-colored sets: Each set of three aces of different colors is worth 6 points, while each set of all four is worth 12 points.

Each ace can be used twice: once in a matching set and once in a set of different colors.

There are other ways to get aces, including the Fancy Saloon—it lets you choose one of the available ace cards in the supply and place it in front of you next to your settlement board, where it counts as an ace of the suit shown.

At the end of the game, Devin has the following aces on her settlement board: 3 aces of spades, 2 aces of hearts, and 1 ace of clubs. She also has the ace of diamonds card, which she took from the supply earlier when she placed a Fancy Saloon. With these, she can make two sets: one set of four different aces and one set of three matching aces (spades), for a total of 18 points. She is unable to use her extra ace of hearts.

Completing a Town

There are several town plots on your settlement board, each marked by a colored background and a sign. To complete a town, every square of it must be covered by tiles.

Whenever you complete a town, score the points shown on the town's sign (at the edge of your settlement board). In Years 1-3, you also score a completion bonus, shown on the scoreboard.

At the left is the town plot for Lone Star. At the right is that same town, completed with covering tiles. (Note that the tiles in this case cover more spaces than just the town itself.) When the last space of the town is covered by a tile, score 6 points, plus a completion bonus determined by the year.

Buildings

Tiles with a name on a colored signed are building tiles. The color of the sign tells you when the building works:

• A white sign indicates something you get when it is placed.
• A red sign indicates something you get when it is surrounded: that is, when there is no space anywhere adjacent to it where a tile could be placed (not counting spaces diagonal to the building). Hills, fields, mines, and cows printed on your settlement board—and even the edge of the board itself—count for surrounding (because no tiles can be placed there).
• A pink sign indicates conditions for scoring points at the Endgame.
• A yellow sign indicates an ongoing benefit provided throughout the game.

See the Building Guide for a description of each building's rules and abilities.

Wrangling

Green spaces, with or without a cow in them, represent fields. Some are printed on your settlement board, while others are found on tiles. A group of fields connected directly to each other forms a single pasture.

Whenever you place a tile that creates or expands a pasture, if that pasture has 3 or more cows, you may wrangle it: take a cowpoke from the supply and place it anywhere in the pasture. Consult the bottom of the scoreboard for the number of cows in your pasture, scoring the number of points shown.

Each pasture can only be wrangled once. You might want to wait to wrangle until a later turn, adding more cows to increase your score. But plan carefully. If you connect one pasture directly to another that's already been wrangled (creating one bigger pasture), the cowpoke already there means you won't be able to wrangle it. (But connecting two wrangled pastures together is no problem.)

When a pasture you wrangle has 4 or more cows, you also gain the bonus shown on the related cattle contract on the scoreboard: additional points, gold or bullets from the supply, or alleys (which you take from the supply and place immediately on your settlement board). If that cattle contract has not yet been claimed in this game, flip it over—the larger bonus can be claimed only once each game, and from then on, players receive a smaller bonus for wrangling a pasture of that size.

You may wrangle a pasture for fewer cows than are actually in it. You might want to do this if you want to claim a different cattle contract… but this will also reduce the number of points you score. The largest possible wrangle is 7; there is no extra benefit for having more cows in a pasture.

Becca placed tile A on a prior turn. Later, she drafted tile B and placed it to connect directly with the two cows printed on her settlement board (C). She decides to wrangle and places a cowpoke in that pasture. She consults the scoreboard, scoring 6 points and a cattle contract bonus of 2 gold. This is the first time this cattle contract has been collected this game, so she flips it over. On her next turn, Becca drafts tile D. She wants to start a new pasture, so she's careful to place the tile such that it doesn't connect directly with the one she already wrangled.

Sheriffs and Bandits

Bandits are a scourge to all and you'd do well to keep them out of your settlement. For that, you'll need sheriffs and bullets.

Bullets can be gained from bonuses on your board, as well as some tiles and cattle contracts. Keep them near your settlement board until your sheriffs need them.

Sheriffs are straight shooters. If you have one or more bullets, they'll shoot any bandits who are in the same row or column as them (they can't shoot along diagonals or around corners). Sheriffs always immediately take their shots if they can. If a sheriff can shoot more bandits than you have bullets, you choose which to shoot.

Sheriffs can shoot across streets (tan spaces), fields (green spaces) and even untiled spaces. They aren't blocked by aces, tombstones, cowpokes, pickaxes, horseshoes, or bonuses on tiles. Sheriffs cannot, however, shoot through cows, hills, mines, or buildings. A sheriff may shoot a hill bandit in a direct line, but may not shoot through that hill or any other hill.

Mark a fallen bandit by covering it with the bullet you used—it's now a tombstone, and will score 2 points at the Endgame. The fallen bandit is no longer counted during a Tussle.

There are two sheriffs on this settlement board, 1 and 2. The circled bandits can be shot, while the others currently can't be.

Sheriff 1 can shoot bandit A; he's in a straight line and gold is not an obstacle. He can also shoot bandit B (standing in front of the Saloon), bandit C (standing across a field and behind bandit B), bandit D (on the hill), and bandit G (across the space to his right). He can't shoot bandit E (blocked by the hill), or bandits F or H (as they're not in a straight line from him).

Sheriff 2 can't shoot anyone! The only bandits in a straight line from him are F (who is behind a building), and G and H (who are behind a cow).

Endgame

After the Year 4 Tussle, the game ends and players total up their Endgame points. Use the helper cards to go through each category together, with each player scoring their respective points.

• Trailblazing - Lose 1 point for each uncovered horseshoe on your settlement board.
• Buildings - Score points from buildings with pink signs.
• Tombstones - Score 2 points for each tombstone on your settlement board.
• Aces - Score your aces: 6 points for each set of three and 12 points for each set of four.
• Mining - Score the number of points shown to the right of your mining marker (on your mining board).
• Partners - Reveal any face-down partners, then score all of your partners according to their unique conditions.

The player with the most points claims victory! In the case of a tie, the player with the highest total of unused gold and bullets wins. If there's still a tie, those players share the victory.

Enhance your experience with the Dire Wolf Game Room companion app for your PC, smartphone, or tablet. It includes a score calculator and more solo options for WILD TILED WEST.

Strategy Tips

• The race for gold is paramount in winning the West. Early pickaxes can give you a leg up.
• Before you spend your entire fortune on a great tile, consider how long it will be before you earn income. Otherwise, you risk leaving yourself with few options in later rounds this year.
• Avoid placing too many tiles on empty spaces. Try to cover icons or fill towns instead.
• Be careful with your field placements. You'll miss out on points if you can't wrangle all of your cows!
• You won't necessarily score the maximum points possible for each of your partners in a game. Balancing which goals to pursue is up to you!

Wild Sides

Experienced players may choose the additional challenge of the "wild side" of the settlement boards, which are a little tougher to play. Each of these wild sides presents a unique rule set. (Some are described in more detail below.)

Players do not all need to play on the wild side. Decide during setup whether all, some, or none of the players will use the wild side of their settlement board. Veteran players can use them in games with new players to help level the playing field.

Carpenters

You must pay the cost for a building tile you are placing before you stash gold on it.

House in Danger

When placing your building at the start of the game, take it from the tile trays (not from any tiles you may have removed from the game, depending on player count). The first tile you place in the game must connect to this building. (Your settlement board does not have a crossed pickaxes space.)

Pocket Aces

When you cover this bonus on your board, choose an ace card from the supply and place it next to your settlement board. At the end of the game, the card counts like the aces on your settlement board.

If connected to your tiles at the Endgame (by having a tile in the adjacent space), score 3 points for each ace of the matching suit that you have (including any ace cards).

Johnny connects to the ace of clubs and the ace of hearts. By the end of the game, his aces include two aces of clubs and four aces of hearts. He scores 3 points for each ace of clubs (6 points total) and 3 points for each ace of hearts (12 points total), for a total of 18 bonus points—in addition to the normal Endgame ace scoring.

Rope Trick

To surround a lasso, you do not need to cover spaces diagonal to it. You may cover lassos with tiles before or after surrounding them (but if you do it before, you won't get the bonus!)

Signpost

When you set aside your General Store at the start of the game, take it from the tile trays (not from any tiles you may have removed from the game, depending on player count.) When you place the General Store you had set aside, it only needs to cover the third signpost; it does not need to connect to any of your other tiles. Once placed, you may play new tiles connected to it.

Solo Play

To ride off into the sunset alone, use the additional rules below.

Solo Setup

• Place the scoreboard with the Solo Play side face up.
• Remove one of each tile from the tile trays. (40 tiles in total.) Set them aside in the game box; you will not use them this game.
• You'll use two prairie dice and one river die. Return the other three dice to the game box.
• Shuffle the bandit cards together and place them face down within easy reach to form the bandit deck.
• Set the Bandit Ridge card next to the deck.

Solo Gameplay

In Solo Play, the Bandit Ridge and bandit cards are used to challenge you in Tussles, and can flip over cattle contracts to their less-valuable sides before you claim them.

Each round, roll all three dice and draft one tile.

When you advance the round marker on the scoreboard to a space with a cactus symbol, reveal the top card of the bandit deck and place it face up in a row below the bandit deck. Whenever you reveal a new bandit card, place it to the right of any previously revealed.

When a bandit card with bullets is revealed, take that many bullets from the supply and use them to cover up bandits on Bandit Ridge and face-up bandit cards. Keep any excess bullets near Bandit Ridge and use them to cover any future bandits immediately when they are revealed.

When a card with cows is revealed, total up the number of unwrangled cows showing on all face-up bandit cards. If there are enough cows to claim a cattle contract that has not yet been flipped over to its less-valuable side, place a cowpoke on the rightmost cow and flip over that cattle contract (neither you nor Bandit Ridge takes any reward). The cow this cowpoke is on and all cows to the left of it are considered wrangled. If multiple unflipped contracts could be flipped, flip the one associated with the largest wrangle. If there are not enough unwrangled cows on face-up bandit cards to flip over any cattle contract, do nothing; wait until more cows are revealed on a future bandit card, then check again.

In this game, the first bandit card Becca flipped had 3 cows and 1 bandit. Now the second card has 2 cows. Added to the 3 previous cows, this makes 5, which is enough to claim the (as yet unclaimed) 5-cow cattle contract. Becca flips that contract over and places a cowpoke to mark that the 2 new cows (and all the cows left of them) are now wrangled.

At the end of each year, add up the number of bandits (not covered by bullets) on the bandit cards and on Bandit Ridge. This is the number of bandits you are competing against to win the Tussle.

When you win or tie a Tussle, score points as normal and (in Years 1, 2, and 3) take a hill bandit.

If you lose a Tussle, lower your score and place a hill bandit on Bandit Ridge. In case of a tie, Bandit Ridge also gets a hill bandit.

After the final round of Year 4, total your score normally, then check it against the chart below to learn whether you're a lowly Sidekick or a Mysterious Stranger!

Rank	Score
Sidekick	50+
Deputy	90+
Ranger	110+
Marshal	130+
Mysterious Stranger	150+

Building Guide

• Bank — When surrounded, gain 3 gold.
• Barn — Whenever you wrangle cows, gain 1 gold.
• Cache — When placed, gain 2 bullets.
• Chapel — At the Endgame, score 1 additional point for each tombstone on your settlement board.
• Fancy Saloon — When placed, choose an ace card from the supply and place it next to your settlement board. At the end of the game, the card counts like the aces on your settlement board.
• General Store — When surrounded, choose: gain 2 bullets, 2 pickaxes (advancing your mining marker twice), or 2 alleys (placed immediately).
• Hideout — Cover up to two sheriffs on your settlement board with bullets from the supply. These are now tombstones. These sheriffs can no longer shoot bandits.
• Hotel — Whenever you win a Tussle, score 2 additional points.
• Ranch House — At the Endgame, for each pasture with at least one square connected to the Ranch House, score 1 point for each cow in that pasture.
• Sawmill — When drafted, place arrow side face up. One time on a future turn, instead of Drafting a Tile, you may flip the Sawmill over to take any tile from the tile trays (except another Sawmill) and place it on your settlement board. If it has a gold cost, you must still pay it.
• Sheriff's Office — When placed, take a bullet from the supply. Immediately use as many of your bullets as possible to shoot bandits anywhere on your settlement board (whether or not you have a sheriff on the board).
• Stables — At the Endgame, if you've covered all horseshoes on your settlement board, score 8 points.
• Town Hall — When surrounded, score 10 points.
• Wheelwright — When placed, choose one (depending on which side you place face up): immediately take two alleys from the supply and place them, OR for the rest of the game, whenever you would place a single alley, you may place two adjacent alleys instead.

Icon Guide

Ace, Alley, Bandit, Bullet, Cow, Field, Gold, Hill, Hill bandit, Income, Mine, Pickaxe, Sheriff, Start space, Street, Take a Partner, Town scoring.

Credits

GAME DESIGN: Paul Dennen

EXECUTIVE PRODUCER: Scott Martins

ART DIRECTION: Clay Brooks, Nate Storm, Scott Martins

ART & GRAPHIC DESIGN: Clay Brooks, Anika Burrell, Atilla Guzey, Raul Ramos, Julianne Stone, Nate Storm

CHARACTER DESIGN: Anika Burrell

CARD ILLUSTRATION: Anika Burrell, Raul Ramos

PRODUCTION: Evan Lorentz, Marshall Britt

GAME DEVELOPMENT: Justin Cohen

ADDITIONAL GAME DEVELOPMENT: Andy Clautice, Julia Duga, Evan Lorentz, Kevin Spak, Yuri Tolpin, Jay Treat, Caleb Vance

SPECIAL THANKS TO: All of the awesome Dire Wolf Digital team members, and their friends and families, who helped to playtest Wild Tiled West!

Published by: Dire Wolf Digital. © 2023 Dire Wolf Digital, Inc. All Rights Reserved.