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Lairs

Lairs Rulebook

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

  • How to Win?
  • Hey, What's That?
  • Components
  • Setup
  • Building Your Lair
    • Use (Almost) Everything
    • No Unreachable Spaces
    • The Peril Rule
  • Gameplay
    • Mapping, Learning About, and Locating
    • Spending Cubes
    • Checks
    • Penalties & Fatigue
    • On Your Turn
      • On Your Very First Turn
      • On Every Turn
  • The Actions
    • Creep — costs any cube
    • Hustle — costs any two cubes or one Quickness cube
    • Backtrack
    • Peer — costs any two cubes or one Perception cube
    • Conserve — move 1-3 Fresh cubes
  • Features
    • Hazards
      • Monsters & Traps
        • Fighting Monsters
        • Disarming Traps
    • Goals
      • Chests & Treasures
        • Opening Chests
        • Your Treasure Collection
      • The Exit
  • Game End
    • Treasure Collection
    • Defeated Monsters
    • Exiting
    • Other Scoring
  • Mapping Advice
  • Treasure Type Glossary
  • Credits & Acknowledgements

How to Win?

You win by having more victory points (VP) than your rival at the end. Earn VP by finding Treasures (especially ones that combo together), by defeating Monsters, and by exiting the lair (with a bonus for being first).

Hey, What's That?

The Lairs base game includes everything you need to play the game, and teaches you how to build and explore devious dungeons. You will have tons of fun with everything in this box, but you'll probably soon be itching for more. And there is more! Much more gameplay and content awaits you in the Lairs Adventurer's Pack, available on the KTBG website and in game stores everywhere. You might notice symbols or other features on your components that are unexplained in this rulebook, and you may say to yourself "Hey, what's that?" Just relax; it's something cool relating to a new gameplay element you'll find in the Adventurer's Pack.

Components

  • 2 Lair boards — each has a grid of spaces marked with row letters and column numbers (the grid coordinate system), an outer wall, wall slots along the space borders, and a compass rose.
  • 2 Player mats — each has a Conserved slots area, a Fresh basket, a Spent basket, a Fatigued basket, and an achievements row tracking Disarmed Traps, Opened Chests, and Defeated Monsters, plus the Exit Criteria and a score chart.
  • Pad of map sheets — each sheet has a grid matching the Lair board (row letters, column numbers, outer wall), a compass rose, a mapping legend, and a score chart.
  • 2 Screens — printed with rules reminders, the list of Actions, and the Lair-building rules, to hide your Lair board from your opponent while shielding your own view of your map.
  • 3 Basic dice — these are not normal dice; their faces are a mix of pip values used to total up checks.
  • 2 Pencils
  • 2 Start tiles
  • 2 Exit tiles
  • 2 Tracker tokens — used to mark your current position on your own map sheet as you explore.
  • 12 Energy cubes — 8 Basic (white), 2 Quickness, 2 Perception.
  • 1 Monster card (the Hungry Blob) — shows a Target number, a Category, a Strike Effect, and a Reward on the front, with additional details on the back.
  • 1 Trap card (the Greased Pit) — shows a Target number, a Category, and a Strike Effect on the front, with additional details on the back.
  • 22 Treasure cards — each shows a Base Score, a Keyword, and a Type on the front, with Bonus Scoring on the back.
  • 6 Monster tokens (Hungry Blob)
  • 6 Trap tiles (Greased Pit)
  • 6 Chest tokens
  • 40 Wall pieces
  • 2 Explorer tokens

Each Monster and Trap (and other things too) belongs to a category. Categories have no meaning in the base game, but they will be referenced by elements you may introduce in the future. There are three categories: Natural, Mechanical, and Enchanted.

Setup

Players sit across from each other.

  1. Stand your screen so the information side faces you.
  2. Place your Lair board behind your screen so that your opponent can't see it.
  3. Gather your Lair-building pieces: 20 Walls, 3 Trap tiles, 3 Chests, 3 Blobs, the Start tile, the Exit tile, and your opponent's Explorer.
  4. Place a fresh Map sheet to the side of your screen, so that the other player can see it. Keep a sharpened pencil and your Tracker nearby.
  5. Place your Player mat above your Map sheet. Place 6 cubes (4 white, 1 yellow, 1 green) in the Spent basket of your mat.
  6. Shuffle the Treasures to form a face-down deck. Lay out a face-up display of three Treasures.
  7. Keep the dice where both players can reach them.
  8. Place the Hungry Blob Monster card and the Greased Pit Trap card where both players can see them.

Building Your Lair

Both players simultaneously construct their lair on the board hidden behind their screen. Your lair is a grid of spaces; walls divide it up into a mysterious pitch-black maze full of dangers and hidden treasure. Your lair is composed of walls and Features.

Walls go on space borders to form your lair's structure; Explorers can not move or see through walls. The outer perimeter of the grid is considered to already be all walls. Walls go on the space borders; the pieces sit in slots, so that they won't be dislodged during play.

Features go in spaces (maximum one feature per space). They come in three categories:

  • Goals (Chests and the Exit) are good things.
  • Hazards (Monsters and Traps) are bad things.
  • Neutral Features (the Start) are neither Goals nor Hazards.

There are three lair-building rules:

Use (Almost) Everything

You must use all of the components... but you may leave out up to 3 of your 20 Walls.

No Unreachable Spaces

Every space must be reachable from the Start without passing through a wall. Explorers move orthogonally from space to space, never diagonal.

Lair legality example: the spaces in the top left corner have been walled off and are unreachable.

The Peril Rule

From the Start to each Goal (the Exit and all three Chests), there must be at least one path that never passes through two Hazards of the same type (one of each, at most, is fine).

  • Since the two types of Hazards are Traps and Monsters, each Goal must be reachable without passing through two Traps or two Monsters.
  • It's okay if illegal paths to a Goal exist… as long as there is at least one legal path to it.

Peril rule examples: there is no way to get to the Chest without passing through two Traps — illegal. You can reach the Chest by passing through one Monster and one Trap, which is fine — legal. Although there is a path to the Chest that breaks the rule, there is at least one legal path to it — legal.

Check that your lair is legal: One by one, place your finger on each Goal, and confirm that you can trace at least one route back to the Start that doesn't pass through two Traps or two Monsters. Once you are sure that all four Goals are legal, your lair is ready!

The first player to finish building their lair gets to choose who takes the first turn as Explorer.

Lair-building tips for beginners: Don't overthink it! You'll have a better sense of how to build a great lair after you've played, but it won't really matter for your first game; your rival will have an excellent time exploring, as long as you follow the three rules. After your first game you will be drooling with anticipation to build a new lair!

Gameplay

You will alternate taking turns. On your turn, you are the Explorer and your opponent is the Builder.

You will explore your rival's lair, performing actions by spending cubes (see below). As you go, the Builder will describe what you encounter; use your pencil and map sheet to draw a map of your discoveries. Continue taking actions until you run out of cubes to spend (or decide to stop); then your opponent's turn begins.

As you explore, move your Tracker on your map sheet to keep track of where you are in the lair; the Builder should move your Explorer pawn on their Lair board to match. As you move your Tracker on the map you are drawing, the Builder mirrors your movement, step by step, with your Explorer on their Lair board.

Mapping, Learning About, and Locating

Specific details about how to mark things on your map are explained in the relevant sections.

There are two ways to discover things to draw on your map: learning about a space (very common), and locating a Feature/wall (pretty rare).

  • When you learn about a space by any means, the space becomes completely Known to you. The Builder must describe any walls that surround the space, and fully identify any Features within it.
  • When you locate something, the Builder only discloses its grid location on your map, and no other details about the thing or its space; the space does not become Known to you.

Example: You learn about space B2, so it becomes Known. The Builder tells you that there are walls to the north and east, and a Monster (specifically a Hungry Blob) is waiting there. You draw all that information on your map.

By comparison, if you locate a Trap in space D3, you only draw the Trap symbol in that space. The space remains Unknown, you don't know if there are any walls around it, and you don't even know specifically what kind of Trap it is.

Spending Cubes

Cubes represent energy that you spend to perform actions. To spend a cube, move it from the Fresh basket to the Spent basket on your mat. Each action has a specific cost in cubes; there are reminders on your screen. Always remember to first spend the cube(s), then carry out the action.

  • A cube in a Conserved slot has been saved from a previous turn. You may spend it into your Fresh basket, where it can then be spent as usual into the Spent basket. In effect, by saving it this turn, you get to spend it twice on your next turn.
  • White cubes are basic and have no special properties.
  • Coloured cubes represent your attributes (see below); they let you perform certain actions more efficiently.
    • Quickness — Moving speedily and reacting swiftly is critical in the dangerous tunnels. Being faster is never a bad thing.
    • Perception — Spot danger before it becomes a problem for you, and notice opportunities in the gloom. Stay alert, stay alive!
  • The gray cube symbol means that any cube (white basic or coloured attribute) may be spent.

Some cube-spending examples: A Creep action costs any cube. It's a good idea to spend a basic cube, and save your attribute cubes for things they are especially good at. A Peer action costs any two cubes or one Perception cube. You spend your Perception cube. If you wanted to, you could have spent your conserved basic cube twice; once into Fresh and then a second time into Spent... but spending the Perception cube lets you take advantage of its efficiency.

Checks

A check is an event where you roll dice against a target number; checks include fighting Monsters and disarming Traps. Before you roll, you must spend cubes to buy the dice you wish to roll; each die costs one cube. If the combined total of your roll meets or exceeds the target, the check succeeds; if not, it fails. The consequences of success or failure depend on the event.

  • You may choose (or be forced) to spend no cubes, and thus roll zero dice; this counts as a failed check.
  • You may buy more dice than are physically available; just split your check into multiple rolls and add their totals together.

Example: To disarm the Greased Pit Trap you must conduct a check against its Target of 5. You decide to buy two dice, so you spend two cubes. You roll the dice... your total is 3, which means a failed check. You will suffer the consequences of triggering the Trap.

Penalties & Fatigue

A common penalty from various hazards is to spend or fatigue cubes. When you must fatigue a cube, choose a cube (that isn't already fatigued), and move it to your Fatigued basket.

  • Some penalties specify certain attribute cubes, or specifically Fresh cubes; make sure to obey these specifics. Conserved cubes count as Fresh cubes for penalty purposes.
  • If you can't completely fulfill a penalty, fulfill as much of it as you can and then fatigue any one cube of your choice for each unfulfilled increment of the penalty.

Example: The penalty for failing to disarm the Trap in the example above is to fatigue two Fresh cubes. You only have one Fresh cube, so you fatigue it. To satisfy the unfulfilled part of the penalty, you choose a Spent basic cube to fatigue.

Penalty icons found on cards include: spend any one cube, fatigue any two cubes, fatigue one Quickness cube, and fatigue any two Fresh cubes.

On Your Turn

On Your Very First Turn

The Builder tells you the grid coordinate of the Start tile (where your Explorer begins). First draw the Known circle in that space to mark it as Known to you. Then the Builder describes any walls surrounding the space (to its north, east, south, or west… there are compass-roses on your board and map to help you orient); draw them on your map. Write an "S" in the space (to mark it as the Start space), and finally place your Tracker in that space.

Example: The Builder tells you "You start in A1. There is a wall to the east." In space A1, you draw the Known circle, the east wall, and an S to indicate the Start. Then you place your Tracker there.

On Every Turn

  1. Confirm your location. It is always a good idea to begin your turn by confirming your current grid coordinate with the Builder. (For example, "I am in B5, right?") This will help prevent map errors and confusion.
  2. Refresh your Energy. Move all Spent cubes to the Fresh basket, then all Fatigued cubes to the Spent basket. Conserved cubes do not move.
  3. Explore. This is the main part of your turn. You will spend cubes to perform actions, encountering Hazards and Goals along the way (see The Actions and Features for details).

Refreshing Example: Your three Spent basic cubes move back to your Fresh basket. Your Fatigued Perception and basic cube move back to your Spent basket. Your conserved Quickness cube stays where it is.

The Actions

Creep — costs any cube

Move your Explorer into an adjacent space (not through a wall) like this:

  1. Announce the move direction, and the destination's grid coordinates. (For example: "I am Creeping east into E4.")
  2. If it is a Known space, simply move your Tracker in. If it is an Unknown space, you will first learn about it: Draw the Known circle in the space, to mark that it has become Known to you. The Builder describes the space (first any walls surrounding the space, then any Feature), and you draw them on your map. Then move your Tracker in.
  3. If there is a Feature in the space, you will now interact with it, depending on what it is (see Features for details).

The circle indicates that a space is Known to you. The map symbols are: Empty, Walls, Monster, Trap, Chest, Exit.

Creep Example: You spend a cube, and announce that you are Creeping east into E4, which is an Unknown space. This is what the Builder is looking at behind their screen. The Builder says "there's a wall to the east... and a Greased Pit!" You draw the Known circle, the wall, and the Trap triangle. You move your Tracker in; now you must deal with having moved into an Unknown Trap (see Hazards).

Hustle — costs any two cubes or one Quickness cube

Move (up to) three times (using the Creep process). Fully resolve each move separately. If you enter any non-Empty space, the Hustle ends and any remaining moves are lost.

You don't declare all three at once; decide each move after the previous one is resolved. You may voluntarily stop before using all three.

Hustle example: You spend any two cubes to Hustle. First you move south into C3, which is empty. Secondly you continue south into D3, also empty. With your third and final move you go east into D3, which contains a Chest! Coloured map marks indicate what you would draw with each move.

Backtrack

Move through any number of Known Empty spaces, into a Known space (which itself may or may not be Empty).

Any Feature (even the Start or Exit) interrupts a Backtrack.

Backtrack example: Spend a Quickness cube to Backtrack to any of the spaces shown, or stop in any space along the way. Any non-Empty space stops your movement.

Peer — costs any two cubes or one Perception cube

Learn about an adjacent Unknown space (not through a Wall), then you may move into the space (for free) if you want.

The process is exactly like Creeping into an Unknown space, except that you do not have to move.

One advantage gained from Peering is that Hazards are much more punishing to you if you move into them while they are Unknown.

Peer Example: You spend any two cubes, and Peer westward into Unknown D3. The Builder says "There are walls to the north, south, and west, and nothing else." You mark that all on your map and decide not to use your free move in, since it is a dead end.

Conserve — move 1-3 Fresh cubes

Taking this action immediately ends your turn. You may move up to three Fresh cubes into the Conserved slots beside your Fresh basket (saving them to be spent twice next turn).

Conserve Example: You have two Fresh cubes you'd rather not spend. You conserve them for next turn, ending your current turn.

Features

Hazards

Monsters & Traps

Monsters and Traps are dangerous hazards. To mark a Monster on your map, draw a square in its space, and to mark a Trap on your map, draw a triangle in its space.

In the base game, all Monsters are Hungry Blobs and all Traps are Greased Pits. If you ever introduce hazards to your game beyond these two, it's a good idea to write the hazard's initials in the map space to remind you of exactly which hazard you've encountered!

  • When you move into a Monster or Trap in a space that was Unknown before you moved in, it immediately strikes you; suffer the strike effect its card describes.
  • When you move into a Monster or Trap in a Known space, it does not immediately strike you but you must fight/disarm it (see below).
  • If you are in a space with a Monster or Trap, the only things you are allowed to do are either fight/disarm it, or take any action that moves you out of its space. A Monster or Trap doesn't block you from leaving its space unless its card says so.

Hazard example: You Creep into an Unknown space that turns out to contain a Hungry Blob; it immediately strikes you, and you must fatigue any two cubes. After that, since you remain in the space with the Blob, you must either fight it, or move out of its space somehow. You have two cubes left to buy dice, and the Blob's Target is 6... you are feeling lucky and decide to fight! See below for possible outcomes...

Fighting Monsters

To fight, conduct a check against the Monster's current Target.

  • If you fail, the Monster strikes you (suffer the strike effect its card describes). Track damage to the Monster by subtracting your roll result from its Target, and write that new value in the Monster's square on your map; the next time you fight it, its Target will be that new value.
  • If you succeed, you have defeated the Monster! Take its token and place it on your achievements row in the leftmost empty Monster slot. If the Monster card shows any rewards, gain them now. Shade in the Monster's square on your map to mark the space as Empty.

The Hungry Blob is a pushover, and its reward section shows nothing. Monsters from the Adventurer's Pack are feistier, and will grant rewards upon defeat.

Fight failure example: Your roll totals 4; the Blob's Target is 6, so it survives and strikes you (again), fatiguing another two cubes. Your 4 damage reduces its Target to 2. You write that on your map; it will be easier the next time you fight it!

Fight success example: Your roll totals 7; the Blob's Target is 6, so it is defeated! You place its token on your achievements row; the Blob card doesn't specify any other rewards. You shade in the Monster square on your map to mark the space as Empty.

Disarming Traps

To disarm a Trap, conduct a check against its current Target.

  • If you fail, the Trap hits you (suffer the strike effect its card describes). Then remove the Trap token from the game.
  • If you succeed, take its token and place it on your achievements row in the Disarmed Traps slot.

Whether you failed or succeeded, shade in the triangle on your map to mark the space as Empty.

Disarm example: You move into a Known space with a Trap, so you must disarm it. You buy three dice, and your roll totals 8; the Trap's Target is 5, so you have disarmed it safely! You place the disarmed Trap tile on your achievements row, and shade in the Trap triangle on your map.

Goals

Chests & Treasures

Chests are Goal Features hidden in the lair. To mark a Chest on your map, draw a chest shape in its space.

  • When you move into a space with a Chest, you may open it.
Opening Chests

Take the Chest token and place it on your achievements row in the leftmost empty Chest slot. When opening a Chest, you get two Treasures from it (there is a reminder in the Chest slot); claim them in this order:

  1. Draw a Treasure from the deck, look at it, and add it to your collection (see below) without showing it to your opponent.
  2. Choose one of the Treasures from the display and add it to your collection. Then refill the gap in the display with a Treasure drawn from the deck.

Shade in the chest shape on your map to mark the space as Empty.

If you ever must discard a Treasure, it goes into a common face-down discard pile. Players may not search the pile. If the deck ever runs out, shuffle the pile to form a new deck.

Opening Example: You open your first Chest, and place the Chest token in your achievements row. First you draw a Treasure from the deck; it is the Tranquil Goblet. Next you look at the display. The Scroll of Harmony scores extra for Harmony items... and your new Goblet has that keyword! You claim the Scroll into your collection, and refill the display. Finally, you shade in the Chest shape on your map to mark that space as Empty.

Your Treasure Collection

Your collection of Treasure cards will usually make up a substantial part of your score.

  • There is no limit to the number of Treasures you may collect during the game, but at the end of the game you will choose (at most) four Treasures from your collection to keep face-up and fully score; any excess Treasures must be flipped face-down, scoring only 1 each.
  • Keep your Treasure collection where your opponent can't see what you're collecting. You may look at your own Treasure cards at any time.

Extra Treasures example: You open your third chest, which brings your Treasure collection to a total of six; at the end of the game you will have to choose two to flip face-down.

The Exit

The Exit is the doorway to leave the lair and trigger the end of the game. To mark the Exit on your map, write an "E" in its space.

You may not exit unless you have achieved (or surpassed) at least one of these combinations (if you don't have the required achievements, you will have to continue exploring and return later):

  • Open 3 Chests
  • Defeat 3 Monsters
  • Open 2 Chests and Defeat 2 Monsters

When you exit, your turn immediately ends. If you are first to exit, your opponent gets one final full turn, then the game ends.

  • You may choose to not exit, even if you have the required achievements.

Being first to exit earns you 4 points and it is the tiebreaker, so it's usually worthwhile to hurry out if you have the opportunity.

Exit example: You have discovered the Exit. You have opened two Chests, and defeated two Monsters. You could choose to exit the lair and trigger the end of the game with a nice scoring bonus... or you could continue exploring and try to improve your score even more!

Game End

Each player totals up their own score, using the scoring chart at the top of their map sheet. Points come from four areas: Treasure Collection, Defeated Monsters, Exiting, and Other Scoring, which sum to your Total Score.

Scoring example: You have six Treasures, so you must choose two to flip face down; they will score 1 each for a total of 2.

Treasure Collection

Each Treasure card in your collection has a base score. Many of them have bonus scoring that may refer to Treasure types, Treasure keywords, or various other accomplishments in ways that can improve their value.

See the back page for a glossary of Treasure types.

Lay out all of your Treasure cards face-up. You must flip Treasures (of your choice) face-down until a maximum of four remain face-up.

  • Each face-up card scores its base score plus any bonus scoring described on the card.
  • Each face-down card scores 1. All identifying information of face-down cards is ignored, including types and keywords.

Example scoring breakdown:

  • Your Tranquil Goblet scores 1. Its bonus does not score since you don't have any other Cups.
  • Your Scroll of Harmony scores 3 base, plus 2 for the one Harmony item you have, for a total of 5.
  • Your Moon Shard scores 1 base, plus 2 because you have a different Shard, for a total of 3.
  • Your Sun Shard scores in the same fashion as the Moon Shard, also for a total of 3.
  • Your total Treasure Collection score is 14.

Defeated Monsters

As shown in your achievements row, your second defeated monster is worth 2 and your third is worth an additional 4.

You defeated three Monsters, so you score 6.

Exiting

The first player that exited scores 4. If the other player exited (which doesn't always happen), they score 2.

The other player exited first, but you managed to exit on your last turn, so you score 2.

Other Scoring

The base game has no other scoring methods. Other ways to score are introduced in the Adventurer's Pack and other expanded content.

There is no other scoring in the base game. Your final score is 22 (14 + 6 + 2 + 0 = 22)... will it be enough to win?

Once you add elements that introduce other scoring, use the top left Notes section of your map sheet during the game to record any gains.

Highest score wins! In the event of a tie, the winner is the one who exited their lair first!

Mapping Advice

Keeping an accurate map is critical for both players; if someone makes a mistake, it can cause confusion and problems that will be difficult to undo later. Here are some tips that will help:

  • As the Explorer, keep your map visible so that your opponent can see that you are correctly drawing what they describe. As the Builder, watch your opponent as they are drawing their map.
  • You don't need to describe outer walls; everyone knows they are there.
  • When you take any action that will cause you to learn about a space (Creep, Hustle, Peer, etc), immediately draw the Known circle even before the Builder starts describing; that space is going to become Known to you no matter what they say.
  • When describing an Unknown space, describe walls first, then describe Features. It's easy to get excited about the Greased Pit your opponent has just fallen into and then forget to mention the boring old walls.
  • Conversely, when you move into an Unknown space (especially one with a Feature in it) and the Builder didn't mention any Walls, just say "Any walls?", in case they got excited about the Greased Pit you just fell into.
  • A compass rose is printed on both your Lair board and your Map sheet for quick reference if you aren't already comfortable with using North, South, East, and West. Some players feel more comfortable using Up, Down, Right, and Left instead.
  • Use both compass directions AND grid coordinates. "I peer west into B3" provides more information for the Builder to notice if a mistake is being made.

The circle indicates that a space is Known to you. Shading in a Feature in a space means that the Feature is no longer there, and the space is now Empty. Map symbols: Empty, Walls, Monster, Trap, Chest, Exit.

Treasure Type Glossary

Books, Statues, Scrolls, Amulets, Cups, Shards, Crowns, Orbs.

Credits & Acknowledgements

Game Design — Chris Westmaas, with Josh Cappel

Development — Sean Jacquemain, Josh Cappel

Illustration — Josh Nelson, Claire Lin, Jean Walter

Graphics & Rulebook — Josh Cappel

Communications Director — Sean Jacquemain

Project Management — Helaina Cappel

Published with love by KTBG. www.kidstablebg.com — © 2025 All rights reserved.

Chris would like to thank: Gillian Berry, Susan Conliffe, Matthew Tinkler, John Lyras, C.E. Francisco, Eumir Fernandez, Ash & Jake Ainsworth, Morgan Nasmith, Travis von Bulow, Julian Walton, Dennis Lee, Cameron Jones, Adam & Kyle Holmes, Ada Diemer, Mark Westmaas, Matt & Jon Sufrin, Mike Yuen, Dejan Radic, Carrie Hughes, John Coutts, Ed Hillier, and Steph & Steve Ellery.

KTBG thanks Chris of course for trusting us with his game design for all this time. Phil Walker-Harding for some great development advice. Jory Cappel, Sam Cappel, Andrew Wolf, Connor Wielgosz, and David Plumridge for some excellent insight and feedback. Jon Mietling for the videography as always. Also thanks to all of the playtesters at various conventions who gave us their great feedback: Peter & Shawn Amundson, Nathalie Beaudoin, Jon Boriotti, Suzanne Brownbill, Caitlin Cetin, Richard & Jennifer Capezzuto, Jacklyn Cito, Jim Contreras, Luanna Corrido, Jon Couch, Devin Croteau, Erik & Akira Currier, Bryan & Karissa Daleus, Todd & Sara Davis, Geoffrey & Nathan Delage, James & Amber Delahunty, Martin Dufour, Alexander & Erin Finnegan, Krista Gardner, Brian & Douglas Goldspiel, Adam Heimowitz, Nicholas Hernandez, Kevin Hillman & Miranda Ruiz-Hillman, Darrell & Tammy Hobbs, Reid & Kyle Hodnett, Nick & Nicole Hutchison, Matt Jamrog, Corinna Juras, Amanda Larkin, Caitlin Leach, Brian MacDonald, Mateo Martinez, Hannah & Josh McClung, Luke Miller, Steven Mills, Mason & Charles Nordine, Kim O'Connor, Roy & Alice Ort, Joris Reynaud, Kristopher Reynolds, Jason & Christine Rubino, Ariel Schvartz, Sabrina & Skyler Schweska, Corwin & Robert Shore, Michael Sims, Ryan Skillings, Susan Soikie, Duncan Spaan, Sara Sprague, Paul Tarka, Tim Westfall, and Richard Wood. And as always, all of our Kickstarter backers for helping us bring this game to reality!