Dunkirk: France 1940 Rulebook

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

• 1. Introduction
• 2. How Do I Win?
• 3. Gameboard / Components
• 4. Game Units
  • 4a. Unit Types
  • 4b. Supreme Headquarters
• 5. Formations
  • 5a. Formation Command Chits
  • 5b. Formation Headquarters
  • 5c. Out of Command Effects
  • Formation Special Question
• 6. Set Up
• 7. Cards
  • 7a. Special Card Situations
• 8. Game Turn Sequence
• 9. Movement
  • 9A. Movement Questions
• 10. Combat
  • 10a. Combat Ratings
  • 10b. Air Strikes / Artillery Strikes
  • 10c. Combat Procedure
  • 10d. Special Battle Situations
• 11. Reinforcements / Reserves
  • 11a. Add "Free" SHQ Step
  • 11b. Reinforcements
  • 11c. Reserves
  • 11d. Add "Free" SHQ Step (if not already added)
• 12. Victory Determination
• 13. Optional Rules
• 14. Design Goal
  • Tips
• 15. Terrain Effects Chart

1. Introduction

OVERVIEW: The game lasts six Game Turns and uses wooden blocks as playing pieces to represent the combat formations of both sides. Each block contains from one to three Steps, representing the number of ten-sided dice the unit will roll in battle. Each step on a block represents roughly a division, with some adjustments to that scale made in the name of game balance.

The wooden blocks are maneuvered and have combat on a gameboard that represents a stylized depiction of the terrain over which the actual campaign was conducted. Each hex on the gameboard represents approximately 20-25 miles from side to side.

In addition, cards are used for a variety of functions to enhance the variety of player decisions and to streamline certain game functions. There is an Allied deck and a German deck.

A key concept in the game is the use of Formations. The units of the opposing sides are grouped in Formations. The game uses a chit pull mechanic to determine the Activation Sequence for the Formations.

2. How Do I Win?

The game is played between two players. One plays the Allied side -- the French, B.E.F. (British Expeditionary Force), and the neutral nations of Belgium and the Netherlands -- while the other plays the Germans. (The game's organization of the fighting forces lends itself to "split command" and can accommodate more than two players, if desired.)

The game is won by accruing Victory Points. The German player will select a Strategy Card at the start of the game, keeping secret the card selected and also placing out of sight of both players the five Strategy Cards not chosen. The Strategy Card outlines what objectives will gain VPs for the German player, as well as identifying events which will subtract VPs from the German total. The Strategy Card lists the Victory Determination Conditions, consulted after the final VP total is determined at the end of the last game turn.

At the start of a game, the German player will select a Strategy Card. There are six Strategy Cards, from which the German player selects one. Each card outlines the specific objectives the German player will attempt to complete, scoring Victory Points for the completion of each objective and (in some cases) losing Victory Points based upon Allied achievements during the campaign.

3. Gameboard / Components

The gameboard depicts a stylized representation of the area over which the actual campaign was conducted. A hex grid is superimposed over the board to regulate movement and combat. Certain terrain features affect the movement of blocks, combat, and Victory Points. "Open-Dot" towns do not receive any City terrain benefits; they are identified on the board for historical reference only. Ports and Capitals are treated as Cities. Full details are found on the Terrain Effects Chart. The game also uses 10-sided dice to resolve combat, with the zero meaning ten. (NOTE: "0" = "10")

During the game, Command Chits are placed into an opaque container at the start of each Game Turn and are drawn one at a time. The Command Chits correspond to the various Formations of the two main sides, as well as the Neutral powers. When a Command Chit is drawn, that Formation must "activate". The Active Formation will move its blocks and (if required) engage in battle with the forces of the opponent. Once the Formation has completed its Activation, a new Command Chit is drawn and that Formation will move, battle, etc. The process continues until all Command Chits are drawn and all Formations have moved/battled, at which time players engage in a Reinforcements / Reserves sequence. During that sequence, blocks in play might receive steps to replace losses, while eliminated blocks might (under certain circumstances) return to play. Following that sequence, the opaque container is "seeded" with Command Chits for the next Game Turn, players are dealt additional Player Cards, and the chit pull process is repeated. After six Game Turns are complete, the German player reveals the selected Strategy Card, and the Victory Point totals -- and the game result -- are determined.

The Allied and German Player Cards provide a variety of functions, all grouped into three broad categories: BATTLE, REINFORCEMENT, or EVENT. Each individual card contains two possible functions (e.g. Battle/Reinforcement, Battle/Event, Reinforcement/Event, etc.). When using a card, the player will select one of the two functions listed on the card. After the card is used, it is removed from play. Cards may be played at various points during a Game Turn, depending on their function and / or any text instructions on the card.

ERRATA: Due to Game Designer oversight, two German player cards (the smaller cards / tan backs) have incorrect banners. German Player Card 9 (lower half) is "Command Confusion". It has a REINFORCEMENT banner, but should have an EVENT banner. The same error appears on German Player Card 24 (upper half); it is "Engineers", but has a BATTLE banner. It should have an EVENT banner.

4. Game Units

The combat units of the two sides are represented by wooden blocks upon which are attached labels. The French blocks are blue, the British Expeditionary Force (BEF) blocks are red, the Belgian blocks are tan, and the Dutch blocks are orange, and the German blocks are gray.

The labels are arranged on the sticker sheet by nationality. Prior to your first play, you will need to affix the labels to the appropriately-colored block. Place one French label on each blue block, one BEF label on each red block, one Belgian label on each tan block, one Dutch label on each orange block, and one German label on each gray block. The turn marker should be placed on any remaining blank block.

A block's label indicates the current "strength" of the block (a value from a low of 1 to a high of 3). These values are called "steps" and are an abstract representation of the combat effectiveness of the forces represented by the various blocks. During play, the blocks stand upright -- facing their owner, thus creating a "Fog of War" effect -- with the current "step" at the top. The only time a block's "face" is revealed to the opponent is at the start of the Battle procedure in a hex and during Formation Headquarters activation.

As result of combat, blocks may lose "steps". This reduction is easily handled by rotating the block so that its new value is at the top when the block is stood upright. The same is true when a block gains steps by Reinforcements.

In addition to the number of steps, the labels also show the Unit Type of the block. Blocks are either Infantry, Mechanized, or Armored. Infantry blocks have two (2) Movement Points, while Mechanized and Armored have three (3) Movement Points.

The labels also show the Combat Rating for the block. This number represents the number (or lower) needed to be rolled on a ten-sided die for the block to score a "hit" against enemy blocks. In battle, a block will roll the number of ten-sided dice equal to its number of Steps.

For example, a three-step block with a Combat Rating of "4" (i.e. "444") would roll three dice; for each die showing a "4" or less, a hit is achieved.

Finally, the blocks also show the Formation to which the block belongs. The concept of Formation is central to the mechanics of the game, as each block belongs to a Formation.

The label shows: Nationality, Number of Steps, Combat Rating (e.g. 3 Steps -- hits on 5 or less when attacking), Unit Type, and Formation Identifier.

4a. Unit Types

The combat units for both sides are either Infantry (signified by a stylized "X" at the edges of the box in the middle of the label), Armor (signified by an oval in the middle of the label), or Mechanized (a combination of the Infantry and Armor symbols in the middle of the label).

Unit type comes into play in not only Movement, but also Terrain/Combat situations.

4b. Supreme Headquarters

Each side has a Supreme Headquarters (SHQ) block. The block is actually a mnemonic marker and is placed on the owner's side of the table, off of the gameboard. The SHQ never moves and is not considered "in play". When it performs a Supreme Headquarters Action, it loses one or more steps. When it is rebuilt (via a card play), it adds one or more steps.

SHQs are able to perform certain "special" Functions. Each action has a cost in SHQ steps. None of these functions may be used with a neutral block (Belgian or Dutch). The actions and their cost are explained here:

OUT OF COMMAND MOVEMENT (COST = ONE SHQ STEP): Allows normal movement (up to a block's maximum Movement Points) of an Out-of-Command block from the Active Formation. OC Movement is conducted during the Formation's Movement phase. The block may not have moved before, nor may move after, movement by SHQ OC Movement during the current Activation. Also, the block may not move into battle by means of OC Movement, and MUST end its move within Command Range of its FHQ at the conclusion of its OC Movement. Not usable by either German Army Group on its (respective) first Activation during Game Turn 1.

STRATEGIC MOVEMENT (COST = ONE SHQ STEP): Allows an In-Command, non-Formation Headquarters (FHQ) block from the Active Formation to move up to four (4) non-enemy occupied hexes. The block may not move into battle or capture enemy cities, fortresses, or ports -- even if vacant; however, the block MAY be moved into an Out-of-Command hex so long as it conforms to those battle / capture restrictions. Strategic Movement is conducted during the Formation's Movement phase. The block may not have moved before, nor may move after, movement by Strategic Movement during the current Activation. No BEF block may be moved by Strategic Movement. In addition, no German block located in a German Set-Up Area may be moved via Strategic Movement.

RESERVES (COST ONE OR TWO SHQ STEPS): Allows the return to play of one eliminated non-FHQ Infantry or Mechanized block (no Armor blocks may return via the Reserves function). Block returns at one or two steps, per the Reserve rules (Section 11). IMPORTANT: No BEF block may be returned to play if eliminated. No Neutral block may ever return to play if eliminated.

BUY SECOND BATTLE ROUND (COST = TWO SHQ STEPS): Purchase enables a second round of battle in a contested hex. Only the owner of the Active Formation may buy a Second Battle Round.

BUY ANOTHER CARD (COST = ONE SHQ STEP): Allows the purchase of an additional card during the Deal Player Cards phase at the start of a Turn. Not usable by either side on Turn 1.

5. Formations

The combat units for both sides are organized into Formations. Formations are the key mechanic in the game. The formation to which each block belongs is signified on its label. The formations for the two sides are as follows:

FRENCH-BRITISH FORMATIONS: French 1st, 2nd, 7th, 9th, Reserve and BEF

GERMAN FORMATIONS: Group A, Group B

NEUTRAL NATION FORMATIONS: Netherlands, Belgium

5a. Formation Command Chits

Prior to your first play, find the Command Chit labels on the sheet. Affix one of these to an appropriately-colored block. Those blocks become the Command Chits that will be drawn throughout the game to "activate" a formation.

The Command Chits are seeded into an opaque container (bowl, soup mug, small opaque bag, etc) as indicated on the Turn Record Chart on the gameboard. Each turn, players will blindly draw Command Chits until none remain in the opaque container. At the end of the turn, the container is re-seeded with Command Chits as indicated on the Turn Record Chart.

When a Formation's Command Chit is pulled, that Formation must become the Active Formation. Each In-Command block of the Active Formation is eligible to move and engage in combat (unless moved by Strategic Movement).

NOTE 1: Not all Command Chits are seeded into the container on Game Turn 1. Some enter later than Turn 1. The Turn Record chart on the Gameboard lists which Chits are placed and/or withdrawn from the container each turn.

NOTE 2: The German player has two Command Chits for each of his formations (reflecting the German operational command superiority). For the first two game turns, the German player will receive two Activations per turn for both of his Formations. At the start of Turn 3, the German player will remove the second chit for each of his Formations; from Turn 3 to the end of the game, each German formation receives only one Activation per turn. This reflects a slight slowing of the operational pace of the German attack due to the supply, communications, and unforeseen considerations that an attacker experiences upon having advanced into enemy territory.

NOTE 3: IMPORTANT: Prior to seeding the opaque container at the start of Game Turn 1, the German player pre-selects a Command Chit from one of his two Formations. This Formation will be the first one Activated. Obviously, therefore, one of that Formation's chits is NOT placed in the container. In this way, the German advantage of a surprise attack is represented, as the German player gets to choose which German Formation will make the first moves / attacks of the game.

5b. Formation Headquarters

Each Formation has a block that serves as the Formation Headquarters (FHQ). These are blocks that are specially marked as HQ. These are extremely important blocks; it pays not to use them in combat unless absolutely necessary.

Each FHQ has a "Command Range". This represents a range of hexes over which the FHQ exerts its command influence. The Command Range includes the hex the block occupies plus an additional number of hexes counting out from that occupied one. Command Range is NOT blocked by terrain or the presence of enemy blocks.

The two sides have different Command Ranges for their FHQs, to better reflect the communication and coordination superiority of the Germans during the actual campaign. The Command Ranges (in addition to the hex the FHQ occupies) are as follows:

FRENCH-BRITISH: two (2) hexagons

GERMANS: three (3) hexagons

NEUTRALS: Do not have FHQ units. All of their blocks are automatically "In Command" when their Command Chit is drawn.

Any block of a Formation that begins the Formation's Activation within the Command Range of its Formation's Headquarters block is considered as being In Command. Conversely, any which is not within its Formation's Headquarters block AT THE END OF ITS FORMATION'S MOVEMENT PHASE is considered Out of Command. Players may wish to note Out of Command blocks by laying the block face down in the hex (keeping track of it's current strength).

Tip: Move the FHQ last when moving the blocks of that formation. That way you can be sure to have it end its move in the best possible hex to exert its Command Range.

5c. Out of Command Effects

Blocks which become Out of Command suffer the following effects:

• Their Movement Point allowance is reduced to one Movement Point.
• Their Combat Rating becomes "1" (i.e. they must roll a "1" to score hits).
• They may not move into battle.
• They MAY be moved via SHQ Out-of-Command Movement during their Formation's Activation.

These effects last until the block is brought back to an In-Command status.

A player may, if desired, intentionally move a block into an Out-of-Command hex. (This might, for example, be done to capture a key non-enemy occupied terrain feature, but entails the above negative consequences.)

SPECIAL SITUATIONS: Should a Formation's Command Chit be drawn and the Formation's FHQ is out-of-play, then all the blocks of the Formation are considered Out-of-Command until such time that the Formation's HQ returns to play. Also, if a Formation's FHQ block is still out of play when blocks of that Formation are attacked, those blocks suffer the Combat Rating penalty just described. Note, however, that if an FHQ block is eliminated in a battle, but blocks of its Formation are also in battle during the same Activation on which the FHQ block was eliminated, those Formation blocks are NOT considered OOC during that (i.e. current) Activation; the effect is not "instantaneous" (in that sense). The blocks will become OOC at the start of the next Activation (either Allied, Neutral, or German) due to their FHQ block being out of play.

Formation Special Question

May blocks of different Formations be in the same hex at the end of a Movement Phase? Yes, but such blocks cannot "attack" together. Only blocks of the Active Formation may "attack" (i.e. make rolls as the "Attacker" in a Battle). However, if two blocks from different Formations in the same hex are attacked by the opponent's blocks, they both roll in defense. IMPORTANT: Again, it is important to remember that the terms "Attacker" and "Attacking" as used in these rules and on the Player Cards apply only to blocks of the ACTIVE FORMATION.

6. Set Up

Prior to play, separate the blocks by side and Formation. Shuffle the cards for each side and create a deck for each. Use the turn marker to mark the current Turn on the Turn Record Chart.

Players place their Formations on the gameboard within the Set-Up area hexes marked for each Formation. Note that not all of a Formation's Set-Up area hexes must be occupied. All blocks start the game at maximum steps. Blocks are placed standing upright, at full strength, with the labels facing the owner. (Note that for rules reference purposes, the German player sits at the "East" side of the board, with the Allied player at the "West" side of the board. This is important for the Reserves rules (Section 11).)

NOTE ON GERMAN SET-UP AREAS: These are basically "holding pens" for the German blocks. When the game starts, blocks from Army Group A may never enter an Army Group B Set-Up area hex, nor vice versa.

The maximum number of blocks that either player may have in any hex at the end of Setup and at the end of any Movement or Combat phase is two (2). (Thus, in a Battle Hex, up to four total blocks could be present -- two from each side.)

Tip: Give careful consideration to the placement of each FHQ during setup, making sure all of its Formation's blocks are within the Command Range of the FHQ's starting hex.

NEUTRALS SET UP: The Allied player sets up the Neutral blocks. They must be placed, one block to a hex, in every Dutch or Belgian city/fort. (Dutch cities = Rotterdam, Nijmegen, Eindhoven, and Maastricht; Belgian cities/forts = Antwerp, Ghent, Brussels, Charleroi, Liege, and Eben Emael.)

Deal the Allied player three (3) cards from the Allied Card deck and the German player four (4) cards from the German card deck. Players may examine the cards dealt to them before the German player selects a Strategy Card.

The German player selects one of the six German Strategy Cards. These cards outline the Victory Conditions for the game. The German player keeps this card secret until the end of the game, as well as placing out of sight of both players the five remaining Strategy Cards (in order to prevent the Allied player from deducing which Strategy Card has been selected).

The German player then selects either an Army Group A or Army Group B Command Chit. This is the Formation that will Activate first for Turn 1 of the game.

Take the remaining Command Chits as indicated on the Turn Record Chart and seed the opaque container with them.

Play then begins with the German player Activating the Formation (either Group A or Group B) selected as described above, engaging in Movement and Combat.

7. Cards

Each player has a deck of cards. The number of cards each player receives per turn is listed on the Turn Record Chart.

The cards are used in a variety of ways during a game turn. The three classification of card types are BATTLE, EVENT, or REINFORCEMENT. Each card contains two options (e.g. Battle/Reinforcement, Event/Battle, Battle/Battle, etc.). The player chooses ONE of the two options when playing a card. The card is removed from play once used.

Note that players do not have to use all of the cards in their hand each turn; cards may be kept "in hand" for multiple Game Turns, if desired, so that players may optimize their use based on the situation on the gameboard. Also, note that once used, cards are removed from play, not returned to the player's draw deck.

When a card may be used is determined by its classification or card text. For example, Battle cards may be used in a battle, but some Battle cards may only be used when attacking and some only when defending.

Event cards are dependent on the card text. Reinforcement cards are played during the Reinforcement Phase.

NOTE: Only one Event card (per side) may be played during an Activation; only one Battle card (per side) may be played in each Battle conducted during an Activation; only one Reinforcement card may be played per side in the Reinforcement phase.

7a. Special Card Situations

GERMAN PARATROOPS: Played as a Formation's Event. Negates the "Five dice at three" Terrain Impact of Eben-Emael. Fortress effects are ignored. Treat the hex as City terrain for combat, but ignore River and/or Bridge effects that might appear to be in play (depending on how the German block(s) entered the hex). The Paratroop card may be played even if German blocks entered the hex / began a battle during some previous Activation.

DYNAMO: Played during a B.E.F. Activation. Blocks may move to Dunkirk and/or Calais as part of the Activation, but those to be evacuated by the Dynamo card must end their Movement phase in Dunkirk and/or Calais. If Event is played, stand the evacuated BEF block(s) (with evacuated steps at the top) on top of the card alongside the gameboard so the number of steps evacuated / VP deductions can be counted during the Victory Point determination phase. Any blocks the Allied player chooses to evacuate do not need to evacuate on the same Game Turn once the Dynamo card is played; some could evacuate on one turn and others on a subsequent turn(s).

AIR STRIKES / ARTILLERY STRIKES: Air Strikes and / or Artillery Strikes may reduce a block to one step in strength, but may NOT eliminate a block. Any hits greater than those needed to reduce the enemy block(s) to one step are ignored.

MINES / FUEL SHORTAGE: The Allied player has several "Mines" and "Fuel Shortage" cards. As noted on the cards, neither of these cards may be played during Game Turn 1. In addition, the Allied player may only make one use of a "Mines" card per game and only one use of a "Fuel Shortage" card per game. Once a "Mines" and/or "Fuel Shortage" card is used, it is given to the German player as a reminder that the Allied player may not use such a card again during the game.

8. Game Turn Sequence

Note: For Game Turn 1, Steps 1-4 below are skipped. For that part of Turn 1, simply follow the directions just stated in Section 6 (Setup).

1. Add or Remove Command Chits per the Turn Record Chart.

2. Deal each player a card(s) as indicated on the Turn Record Chart.

3. Seed the opaque container with the Command Chits indicated on the Turn Record Chart.

4. One player (does not matter which) draws a Command Chit from the container. That Formation is now the Active Formation.

5. FHQ ACTIVATION: The owner of the Active Formation reveals to the opponent the location of the FHQ (in order to prove that FHQ's Command Range).

6. 6A) FORMATION MOVEMENT PHASE: In-Command blocks of the Active Formation may move to their full Movement Rating, limited only by terrain and enemy blocks.

   6B) POSSIBLE SHQ STRATEGIC MOVEMENT: OWNER OF THE ACTIVE FORMATION MAY, IF DESIRED, SPEND A SHQ STEP(S) TO PERFORM A STRATEGIC MOVE WITH A BLOCK(S) OF THE ACTIVE FORMATION. THIS MAY BE DONE CONCURRENT WITH THE MOVEMENT DESCRIBED IN 6A ABOVE, BUT NO BLOCK MAY USE BOTH FORMATION MOVEMENT AND SHQ MOVEMENT DURING THE SAME ACTIVATION. ALSO, REMEMBER THAT NO GERMAN BLOCK LOCATED IN A GERMAN SET-UP AREA MAY BE MOVED VIA STRATEGIC MOVEMENT.

7. POSSIBLE SHQ OUT OF COMMAND MOVEMENT: Owner of the Active Formation may, if desired, spend a SHQ step(s) to perform Out of Command movement with a block(s) of the Active Formation.

8. COMBAT PHASE: Battles exist in any hex containing enemy blocks and at least one block of the Active Formation. Owner of the Active Formation selects the sequence in which Battles will be resolved. Blocks are revealed (positioned face-up) as the first action in the Battle's resolution; players get to see "what they're up against" before deciding on the use of a Battle card.

9. Movement

Activated, In-Command blocks may move to the full extent of their Movement Rating, limited only by terrain and enemy blocks.

A block must STOP its Movement when it enters a hex containing an enemy block(s). (This is how a Battle is created.)

Carefully consult the Terrain Effects Chart during play, as it contains several Effects regarding Movement.

9A. Movement Questions

May my blocks temporarily "overstack" (i.e. have more than two blocks per hex) during my Active Formation's Movement? Yes, so long as at the END of the Active Formation's Movement phase, your side has no more than two blocks per hex. There are no "traffic jams" as your blocks are conducting their Movement phase.

May a block "disengage" from a Battle simply by moving out of the hex during its Formation's Activation? Yes, but such a block may NOT then enter a hex containing an enemy block this Activation. The block may use its full Movement Point allowance when performing a "disengage" move.

May some blocks of the Active Formation disengage from a Battle hex while others of the Active Formation move into the Battle hex? Absolutely. Such "Shuffling" blocks into / out of a Battle hex is permitted. Note that this type of maneuver does NOT constitute the creation of a "new" battle.

May a block from the Active Formation enter a previously-created Battle hex containing a non-Active block of its side? Yes, this type of maneuver is allowed, but keep in mind that in such a situation, the block of the Active Formation that "moved into" the Battle hex is required to attack all enemy blocks in the hex -- but must do so alone. The "friendly" non-Active block that is in the hex takes NO PART in the combat. It cannot roll dice and may not absorb any hits by the opponent in the Battle that has been triggered by the Active Formation block that moved in. Huh? Explain again, please!: Basically, you only want to do a maneuver like this if you are certain that the Active block you move into the Battle hex is capable of successfully fighting a solo battle against the enemy block(s) in the hex.

By the same token, must blocks that are located in an "on-going" battle hex when their Formation chit is drawn either fight in the hex or disengage and leave the hex? Yes. This "fight or flight" rule applies to all German, French, and B.E.F. blocks; however, note that the Belgians and Dutch are exempt from this rule. Blocks of the Active Formation that find themselves in a hex with enemy blocks when their own Formation chit is drawn must either A) engage in battle against the enemy blocks or B) "disengage" and leave the hex (if possible). Note: In situations like this, the blocks of the Active Formation become the "Attacker" and the enemy blocks become the "Defender" (and receive any Defensive benefits on the Terrain Effects Chart), even though the Active Formation blocks might be the "owner" of the hex at the time of the Activation.

May French-British blocks enter Neutral controlled hexes? Yes, but only if the German player has previously entered the Neutral nation's territory. Note: Players need to remember this especially on Turn 1, as the German might not violate neutrality with the first Activation. If an Allied Command Chit is drawn prior to the Germans violating neutrality, no French and/or BEF block may enter Belgium or the Netherlands if the Germans have not yet done so.

May Neutral blocks ever move out of their national boundaries? No. Belgian blocks must remain in Belgian hexes; Dutch blocks must remain in Dutch hexes.

10. Combat

When at least one block of the Active Formation is in the same hex as an enemy block at the end of the Active Formation's Movement Phase, a Battle occurs. Combat is mandatory; players may not decline combat if a Battle condition exists.

Note: Yes, this means that any of your German, French, or B.E.F. blocks that find themselves in a pre-existing Battle hex at the start of their Formation's new Activation must either dis-engage from the hex (see "Movement Questions" above) or, if remaining in the hex, engage in mandatory combat. Belgian and Dutch blocks are exempt from this "Fight or Flight" rule.

In all Battles during an Activation, the blocks of the Active Formation (only) are considered to be the Attacker; enemy blocks in a Battle are considered to be the Defender.

Battles last one (1) Round, with an SHQ purchase of a second Round possible (as well as possible card play). No battle may have more than two Rounds per Activation.

The owner of the Active Formation selects the sequence in which Battles will be resolved. The first step in resolving a Battle is for the blocks in the hex (both Attacker and Defender) to be placed face-up, revealing their current strength to the opponent.

For every "hit" rolled by a block (or an Air Strike / Artillery Strike) during combat, one step of reduction is applied to an enemy block in the Battle. Remember that Air Strikes / Artillery Strikes may NOT eliminate a block.

In Battles, hits are applied evenly; a hit must be applied to the block with the most steps -- the owner decides which block receives a hit if both have the same number of steps. In all cases, the owning player selects which blocks will receive hits, so long as the "evenly distributed" rule is followed.

10a. Combat Ratings

In Battles, each block will roll the number of ten-sided dice equal to its current strength in steps (e.g. three steps = three dice). (Note that certain Cards and/or Terrain might modify the number of dice rolled.) The Combat Rating of a block indicates the number (or lower) that counts as a "hit" when the block rolls its die/dice.

Example: A block with 3 steps rated "444" rolls three dice, needing to roll a 4 or lower to score hits. Remember that 0 = 10 on the ten-sided dice.

The Terrain Effects Chart indicates in what order blocks fire during a battle and other details impacting the combat performance of block(s). Generally speaking, Defending blocks fire before Attacking blocks. In addition, unit types fire in different sequences depending on the terrain of the hex in which the battle is fought; the Terrain Effects Chart lists the sequence for each type of hex.

Note that certain cards can be played that supersede the sequence listed on the Terrain Effects Chart.

10b. Air Strikes / Artillery Strikes

Certain cards contain Air Strikes and Artillery Strikes. These are rolled during the Air Strike / Artillery Strike phase of a Combat Round. Hits are applied immediately. If both players play such a card, it does not matter in which order they are resolved, as both will be conducted before any blocks roll in that Round. REMEMBER THAT AN AIR STRIKE OR ARTILLERY STRIKE MAY NOT ELIMINATE A BLOCK.

10c. Combat Procedure

Follow this procedure for all Battles:

1. REVEAL BLOCKS: The blocks of both the Attacker and Defender are placed face-up.
2. Air Strike / Artillery Strike Phase: Players may decide to play an Air Strike or Artillery Strike Battle Card. THE ATTACKER DECLARES THE PLAY OF SUCH A CARD FIRST; THE DEFENDER MAY THEN CHOOSE TO PLAY SUCH A CARD (IF CARD IS IN HAND AND IF DESIRED). Roll dice to resolve those strikes. Air/Artillery strikes are considered simultaneous. It does not matter who rolls first, as any hits generated are applied to the blocks before the blocks roll against each other.
3. Battle Card play: If a side did not play an Air or Artillery Strike Battle Card, that player may play some other type of Battle card. If both sides are eligible to play a Battle Card at this point, the Attacker must declare the play of such a card first. Remember, if an Air / Artillery strike is played, no other Battle card may be played by that side in this battle this activation. NOTE: Play of an Air Strike or Artillery Strike counts as a player's sole Battle card play for this battle.
4. Unit Types roll as per the Terrain Effects Chart, with Defender blocks of a given Unit Type rolling before any Attacker blocks of the same Unit Type. Note that this sequence may be modified by certain card plays. When a block rolls, it scores a "hit" for every number rolled that is equal to or less than its Combat Rating. Hits are applied immediately. The owner of the impacted blocks decides which block (if two are present) will receive the first hit during the Battle, but remember that hits are applied evenly for the duration of the Battle. Blocks that lose all steps are eliminated.
5. Possible Battle Round 2 (via SHQ purchase or card play) -- repeat Steps 1 through 3. NOTE: Purchase of a second Round does NOT permit the play of a second Battle card for the battle.
6. End of Battle. If blocks from both sides remain, stand the original occupier of the hex upright and leave the Attacker face up.

10d. Special Battle Situations

• FHQ ELIMINATED: If a FHQ block becomes eliminated as a result of combat, it is placed on the next Turn of the Turn Record Chart and re-enters play (at two steps) during the Deal Cards phase of that Turn. It is placed by its owner somewhere within Command Range of at least one of its Formation's blocks, no farther farther East (Allied) or West (German) than the hex of that Formation block, but not in a Battle hex.

  IMPORTANT: The BEF FHQ block may NOT be returned to play.

  IMPORTANT EXCEPTIONS:

  1. If there are no blocks of its Formation still in play at the start of its turn of re-entry, a FHQ may NOT re-enter play. That Formation has thus been completely eliminated. Remove the FHQ block from the Turn Record and give it to the opponent as a mnemonic / trophy, indicating the elimination of that entire Formation.

  2. If an FHQ is eliminated on Game Turn 5, it does NOT return to play at the start of Game Turn 6. (FHQ blocks eliminated on Turn 5 are completely out of the game.) Any remaining blocks of its Formation still in play will be Out-of-Command for Turn 6.

  3. The FHQ for the BEF Formation may NEVER return to play if eliminated. (Yes, that means that any remaining BEF blocks will be Out of Command for the remainder of the game. Moral of the story: DO NOT ALLOW THE BEF FHQ BLOCK TO BE ELIMINATED!)

• NEUTRAL BLOCK ELIMINATED: Any Neutral (Belgian or Dutch) block that is eliminated is permanently out of play.

• "OWNERSHIP" OF A HEX: Hex ownership is determined by the last side to solely occupy a hex. So, what about a situation where (for example) the Germans have captured, let's say, Arras and have a block or two sitting there, unopposed, at the start of Turn 6? The French move some blocks in there during one of their Activations, but do not eliminate the German block(s). End of the battle, French blocks face up, German blocks standing up (denoting hex ownership). Turn 6 ends . . . do the Germans get Victory Point credit for owning Arras? Yes, they do. Even though the game ended with an on-going battle, the Germans were the last side to solely occupy, so they own the hex.

11. Reinforcements / Reserves

During this phase, players will add a "free" SHQ step to their SHQ blocks, may use Reinforcement cards to add one or more steps to damaged blocks, and may use SHQ steps to bring eliminated blocks back into play.

NOTE THAT THERE IS NO REINFORCEMENTS / RESERVES PHASE AT THE END OF GAME TURN 6.

IMPORTANT SEQUENCE RULE: REINFORCEMENTS ARE ADDED BEFORE ELIMINATED BLOCKS ARE BROUGHT BACK INTO PLAY. (NOTE: This rule prevents players from bringing a block back as a Reserve and then immediately adding additional steps to it via a Reinforcement Card.)

11a. Add "Free" SHQ Step

Each player adds one step to his/her SHQ block. Exception: if the SHQ block is already at four steps, this "free" step may be added AFTER the Reserves phase (Section 11d).

(NOTE: The reason for this flexibility as to when exactly the SHQ "free" step is added is to avoid situations where it would be "wasted" if the SHQ is at full-strength at the start of the Reinforcements / Reserves part of the Game Turn.)

11b. Reinforcements

Add the steps as indicated on the Card, with the following exceptions:

• No block in a hex with an enemy block may receive a Reinforcement step(s).
• No block may receive more than two (2) steps of Reinforcement per turn.
• A block must be "In Command" (i.e. within Command Range of its FHQ) in order to receive a Reinforcement step(s).
• No Belgian or Dutch block may ever receive Reinforcement.

11c. Reserves

Using SHQ steps, bring an eliminated block back into play, under the following conditions:

• FHQ blocks are NEVER returned to play using the Reserves process. They are brought back into play using the process described in Section 10d.
• Armor blocks of either the French or German forces may NEVER be returned to play. Once eliminated, an Armor block is permanently out of the game. Only Infantry and Mechanized blocks may be brought back into play using the Reserves phase.
• Exception: The Allied "Spirit of DeGaulle" card allows for the return of ANY French non-FHQ block, including Armor.
• No BEF block may ever be returned to play. Any eliminated BEF block is permanently out of the game.
• A returned block is placed within the Command Range of its FHQ block, no farther North (Allied) or South (German) than its FHQ block, but never in a hex containing an enemy block. (Yes, situations could occur where a returning block could "capture" (i.e. be placed in) a vacant hex containing a city. Somewhat rare, but allowable.)
• If the block's FHQ block is out of play at the time of the Reserves phase, the block may not return until such time (if at all) that the FHQ block is back in play (See Section 10d).
• No block may return at more than a maximum of two (2) steps of strength. One SHQ step is used per step returned. A block may return at one (1) step.

11d. Add "Free" SHQ Step (if not already added)

Add "free" SHQ step at this point ONLY if not done prior to the Reinforcement phase this turn. (NOTE: Players do not get to add two "free" steps to the SHQ, only one. That step is added at this point only if the free SHQ step was not added prior to the Reinforcement phase. This is the "flexibility" aspect described in Section 11a.)

12. Victory Determination

At the end of Turn 6, consult the Victory Point instructions on the German Strategy Card to determine the winner of the game. Remember to include not only the points awarded to the German player for completion of the Strategy Card's objectives, but also any deductions from the German total by Allied achievements listed on the Strategy Card.

Control of a location is determined by the last side's units solely to occupy that location. Note that a hex does not need to be physically occupied by a block in order to retain ownership; players may wish to use tokens to mark hex ownership in cases where blocks of the conquering/capturing side have subsequently moved out of the hex, leaving it unoccupied -- but still owned by that side.

13. Optional Rules

The following are some optional rules / adjustments which may be used to adjust play balance between players of unequal experience and/or add variety for players, regardless of experience. The game mechanics are very conducive to making any number of adjustments in order to provide a competitive game experience between players of differing experience levels. In addition, the following possible adjustments can be used to add to the level of challenge for one or both sides, even between veteran players.

• KEEP EXTRA GERMAN COMMAND CHITS LONGER: You might boost a German player by allowing him/her to keep the extra Command Chit for one -- or both -- of his Formations for Turn 3 (or longer).
• REMOVE EXTRA GERMAN COMMAND CHITS SOONER: You can significantly challenge a German player by removing one or both extra Command Chits at the end of Turn 1. However, this is only recommended if the German player is very experienced and the Allied player someone completely new to war-gaming, as this option would make German victory impossible against even a moderately experienced Allied player.
• ADD/SUBTRACT CARDS: Players may wish to modify the number of Cards a side receives at the start of the game and/or each round.
• INCREASED INTEL: Rather than the "Intelligence" Event allowing the revealing of enemy blocks in one adjacent hex, increase that number to two (or, possibly, a maximum of three) hexes that are adjacent to a block(s) of the Active Formation.
• REMOVE CERTAIN PLAYER DECK CARDS: One side (or both) can be handicapped by the removal of one or more "strong" types of cards (i.e. the most powerful Air Strike cards, the Mines and/or Fuel Shortage cards, the German Paratroop cards, etc.)
• GERMAN INFANTRY ASSETS: Provide the German side with anywhere from one to four German Infantry Assets. These assets, tracked by the use of a blank block, coins, or tokens, are an abstract representation of German tactical efficiency. They are used by the German player to "absorb" a hit that would otherwise be absorbed by an INFANTRY (no Mech or Armor) block in a battle. The German player declares the play of an asset following an Allied player's dice roll results in a battle in order to ignore one hit that would otherwise be applied to a German INFANTRY block. The German player may only use one Infantry Asset per battle per Activation. Once an asset is used, the German player removes it from the number provided at the start of the game. There is no way to replenish these assets; once used, they are out of play.
• "DIAL DOWN" CERTAIN BLOCKS AT START: A more experienced player (either Allied or German) can reduce one or more important blocks by a step prior to the start of the game.

14. Design Goal

The goal in designing the game was to create a fast-playing game with a solid historical basis and feel. My approach was to insert as many "decision levers" into the game as possible, providing a rewarding gaming experience without bogging the game down with complications that might slow the pace of play. The target playing time was two hours, and I believe that two players who have mastered the game's mechanics and rhythm will be able to complete a game in that time, if not less.

As I play-tested the game with gaming friends at conventions or game club meetings, bystanders would ask me if the game leaned more toward the "simulation" side of the scale, or to the "game" side. My answer was a resounding "Game" -- with (hopefully) a strong feel of the history upon which it is based.

The campaign that the Germans waged against the Allies in the Spring of 1940 has fascinated me ever since I became interested in WWII history (and military board-gaming) during my early teens. I could never understand exactly how the Germans dominated what seemed -- on paper, at least -- to be an equally strong (if not superior) enemy force.

Over the years, my reading of the history of the event showed me the answers known to anyone who has studied the campaign: superior German command, control, and coordination on the battlefield; ineffective Allied leadership at the highest levels, betraying the heroism of their countrymen in the field and in the air; remarkable German self-confidence; crippling Allied irresolution.

Despite those historical truths, I always felt that an enjoyable military board game could be produced that did not simply amount to a "replay" of the historical event. And that was my design goal: an enjoyable game, which could be played multiple times and enjoyed by gamers of all experience levels. You might play a dozen or more games before you duplicate the exact outcome of the events of the spring of 1940. Instead, you will write your own history...

The result is, I hope, a game that will provide many hours of enjoyment, all while immersing the players in the history of the campaign and providing a flavor of the decisions that the leaders on both sides faced.

July 2019 Addendum: Now that the game has been in the hands of players for a year, I am very gratified by some of the feedback that I have received. Players report that they are generally right at the two hour mark for game length. Also, players tell me that the game provides a lot of "re-playability", mostly due to the multiple German Strategy Cards. Most of all, many players have told me that they have a lot of fun playing the game.

Over the past year, I have occasionally received questions from players regarding some of the design decisions that I made. Let me share a few of those questions and my answers to them:

"Why allow a player to "disengage forward" out of a Battle hex?" When discussing that question with players, the conversation reveals that they are thinking of a "disengagement" move as a "retreat" move -- and that, accordingly, the disengaging block must move "rearward" towards "its side of the board". That is not what a disengagement move is in this game. Disengagement simply means the block is departing a battle hex and moving to greener pastures elsewhere -- in whichever direction they might be found. Now, why did I allow that? Well, one of the dominant impressions that formed during my study of the actual campaign was the way in which the Allies were constantly caught off-guard by the sudden appearance of German forces in places that the Allies did not expect (nor, indeed, think possible for) them to appear. The only way I could think of to create that "atmospheric" was to allow blocks to "disengage forward". Admittedly, this tactic is used more often by the German player (obviously); however, I felt it was a way (with very little rules overhead) to place the Allied player in the position of having to react quickly to possibly unforeseen threats -- similar to what the Allied player's real-life counterparts had to do.

"Does the game favor one side or the other?" I worked very hard to create a game that was balanced and one in which each side had an equal chance at victory. Having said that, I also designed the game to be a challenge for the German player to win. Certainly not impossible, but the German player really has to leverage deception, effective use of player cards, and a ruthless focus on the objectives on the chosen Strategy card.

The reason I did that was simple: who wants to play a Dunkirk game where the Germans steamroll the Allies every time? As I mentioned above, I have always believed that the historical outcome was not -- in every aspect -- pre-ordained. As such, I thought that challenging the German player more than the real-life Germans (at surface glance) were challenged would make for a better gaming experience.

On balance, I personally think the game tilts something like 52-48 in favor of the Allies . . . maybe a bit more like 55-45 when dealing with two very experienced block game players who have really learned the nuances of the game. That's why I included several Optional Rules so that players could "fine tune" their competitive experience. Having said that, the Allied side has its own set of unique challenges. There are many times when playing as the Allies that I am convinced the game is tilted in favor of the Germans! Go figure!

"Why are there no Supply Lines?" In keeping with my design goal of a two-hour playtime with minimal rules complications, I decided not to include supply lines. Instead, I attempted to abstract supply in the presence of the FHQ blocks. A Formation needs to stick together within the Command Range of its FHQ block in order to be effective. In that sense, the FHQ block becomes a sort of "rolling supply source".

Furthermore, I also designed the game to have a low-to-medium block count. In order to do that, I could not have a game where "traditional" looking "battle lines" could be seen at every stage of the game. In Dunkirk: France 1940, such battle lines can be seen in the early turns, but -- with the advances of the German forces and the possible destruction of some of the Allied armies -- those lines can look very fragmented (on both sides) in the later turns. I was ok with that, as I wasn't trying to depict an operational presentation in which the player needs to monitor his Lines of Supply and maintain a Continuous Front.

Instead, I was trying to create an abstract "design for effect" -- and the effect I was trying to achieve was to place players -- as much I could with a boardgame -- in the psychological mindset of their real-life counterparts. I wanted the German player to feel the pressure of trying to achieve a set of objectives under tight time constraints. (Remember, the Germans did not know when they invaded that the campaign would end up as one-sided as it did; they had some close calls at various points which ended up shifting momentum in their favor.) Similarly, I wanted the Allied player to feel the uncertainties that were such a part of the Franco-British leadership experience in 1940. ("Where are the Germans going? What are their objectives? Why isn't the 2nd Army immediately responding to my orders?")

One of the nicest comments that I have encountered about the game came from a rating posting on BGG. It made me feel as though my decision to not have Supply Lines and/or many more blocks to "fill in the gaps" may have worked:

"While the physical history is suspect (no supply line, goofy looking fronts ), the mental history is perfect. By which I mean the way the game simulates the thoughts and fears of the two sides."

Tips

Given the nature of the chit pull mechanic, there is (intentionally) no "set piece" tips to give either side at the start of the game. What follows is some general advice for players.

GERMAN: At the start of the game, you select a Strategy Card. Pay close attention to all the options on each one before selecting. Once you have made your selection, remember to focus ruthlessly on the achievement of the assigned objectives. I have designed the game to be a challenge for the German player to win, despite the many advantages (better Command/Control, stronger Air Power, etc.) the German army possesses. Keep in mind that you want to keep the Allied player guessing as long as possible as to your exact objectives. Perhaps drive one of your Army Groups a couple of hexes toward the coast, even though your objectives are toward Paris. Or make a feint toward the capital, when your real targets are the coastal ports. In addition, you will get to pick which of your two Army Groups will start the game. Select wisely and use that advantage to get yourself off to a good start. Many times, selecting Group A is a sound move, advancing those units across the border and into the Ardennes before the first Command Chit is drawn. However, depending on the Strategy Card you have selected, beginning the game with Group B as your Active Formation may be even better.

A word about the use of your armor blocks: they are very strong, but also very brittle. You will have to exercise great wisdom in where and when to employ them. Obviously, terrain plays a great role in that decision. A German armor block attacking in a clear terrain hex can have a major impact, as it will -- barring the presence of French armor in the hex -- fire before any other block in the battle. However, sending an armor block into clear terrain by itself is, at best, a risky decision. The best approach is to pair the armor block with a full-strength infantry block. Better still, make use of an Air Strike in that battle hex to support the infantry/armor attack -- the very definition of Combined Arms.

July 2019 Addendum: Experience has shown that the game tilts slightly toward the Allies. The Germans have a challenging task to earn those 10 Victory Points, regardless of the Strategy Card selected.

However, the Germans have some very powerful resources at their disposal. Overall, the German blocks are qualitatively better than the Allied blocks. In addition, the Germans have several Event and Battle cards that can be extremely influential in determining the outcome in many battles.

The most important piece of advice that I can give the German player is this: FOCUS and DECEPTION are perhaps the two most important keys to winning.

What I mean by that is the German player must, must, (must!) stay focused on the Objectives on the Strategy Card. As the game progresses, the German player must react to the fluid situation on the board and constantly re-calibrate how to cobble together the 10 VPs needed for the win. Part of this means not getting derailed into the fun of bashing every orange, tan, blue, or red block that appears before you, just because you can. EVERY attack the German player makes must be done with a clear purpose -- and that purpose needs to have a clear connection to the overall plan for victory. Time is short, and your powerful Armor and Mech blocks are limited (and brittle).

An effective use of Deception by the German player is also needed in order to make victory possible; brute force is not enough. As was just mentioned, your forces are not strong enough, nor your timetable long enough, to bludgeon your way to the win. You must maintain in the Allied player's mind -- for as long as possible -- doubt regarding your ultimate objectives. If the Allied player sniffs out early on where you are going, you are going to have a tough time getting there.

Consider leveraging various aspects of the rules to your advantage. Perhaps use a SHQ step or two to buy an extra card(s) starting on Turn 2. Another tip is to avoid putting your armor blocks out in the open without Infantry or Mech support; one way to support them is to make use of Strategic Movement to help an Infantry block "catch up" to the Armor. Lastly, become proficient at the art of cycling blocks in and out of Battle hexes, as needed, in order to pull out beaten up blocks (hopefully, you can add steps with a Reinforcement card) while still keeping up a fight for a hex.

And oh, that brings up one more thing: think carefully about the implications of the "Fight or Flight" rule. Sometimes, you can achieve success by engaging the Allies in an Objective hex. "Grappling" with them can be a very effective tactic, for if you are still engaged with them on their Activation, they have to fight or leave. That can be an especially helpful situation when Allied blocks from different Formations are defending a key hex together -- remember that only the Active Formation can attack. Blocks of two Formations in a hex can never attack together; they can only defend together. If they are engaged and one of them is Activated, the Active block must either attack alone -- or leave the hex. That creates all sorts of interesting ramifications . . .

ALLIED: Always keep in mind that you are not -- despite appearances at times -- a mere punching bag. Although you are (just as the Germans at times are) subject to the mercy of the Command Chit pull order, it will be important to look for opportunities to "stick it" to the German forces -- either through focused counter-attacks by your blocks or by the skillful, timely play of certain Event or Battle cards. Do not be alarmed if some of your weaker Formations are almost completely wiped out early in the game. You will need to understand the fundamental importance of using your Supreme Headquarters steps to bring blocks back into play. I cannot emphasize how important this is to Allied survival and possible victory. In addition, make sure you do not allow the BEF FHQ Block to be eliminated! Once eliminated, it cannot return to play (really crippling any remaining BEF blocks, as they will all be Out of Command for the rest of the game).

Do not be surprised if you have some Activations (including with the Dutch and/or Belgians) during which you move none of the Active Formation's blocks. If a Formation is in a good position when its Command Chit is drawn, you are not required to move any of its blocks. You just cannot "decline" the Activation and put the Chit back in the container to be drawn again.

You will have holes to plug throughout the game. Make sure you understand the SHQ and Reserve rules so that you may do so. Lastly, it is (obviously) helpful to determine the main German objectives as quickly as possible. Your goal is to toss a monkey wrench -- several, actually! -- into your opponent's plans, disrupting his timetable and making him wish he had never crossed the border in the first place.

July 2019 Addendum: Despite having generally weaker blocks and being on the defensive, the Allied player has some inherent strengths that might not be seen at first glance.

First among these is that the onus for victory is on the German player. It is the Germans who have to "achieve" certain things; the Allied player has the (sometimes gleeful) experience of being the spoiler: thwarting, disrupting, wreaking havoc on German plans by the skillfully-timed play of the Mines! or Fuel Shortage! Events -- or by correctly identifying a key hex where a successful delaying stand can create a bottleneck for the German advance.

Second, the Allied player has the benefit that for the last two-thirds of the game, the number of Command Chits in the opaque container each turn will numerically benefit the Allies. If the German player has not successfully wiped out a Formation during the first two or three turns (thereby evening up the Command Chit odds a bit), the Allied player should be able to gain some significant benefits from the Command Chit ratio.

Two big questions for the Allied player are: 1) "Should I evacuate the BEF if I get a Dynamo card?" and 2) "In which direction should I send the Reserve Army?". There are no easy answers to either of those questions; the best advice that can be offered is to carefully monitor -- from the first game turn -- the "rhythm" of the German advance. How aggressively have they gone after the Neutrals? What Allied armies seem to be their prime targets? Have they been spending a lot of cards early on, or do they appear to be saving them for future battles in the French heartland?

As you set your defense, be very familiar with the Terrain Effects Chart and the way in which different types of terrain impact the sequence in which blocks fire. Also keep in mind the "defense-in-depth" strategy: the stacking limit is two blocks per hex, but that doesn't mean you have to put two blocks in a hex. By placing single blocks in hexes on your front line, and backing them up with hexes occupied by single blocks, you can really slow down a German breakout. This is especially helpful if the German player has selected a Strategy Card that puts more emphasis on the capture of geographic objectives. However, there is a downside to the strategy, for if the German player's objectives are more focused on the destruction of Allied blocks, single-block hexes can play right into the German player's hands.

15. Terrain Effects Chart

NOTE: If more than one Terrain Effect is possible (i.e. Attacker enters a City hex across a Bridge), then Defender chooses ONE Terrain Effect to use for battle.

SEQUENCE NOTE: Battle card sequence effects (e.g. Blitzkrieg! Card) OVER-RULE the T.E.C. Sequences listed below.

RIVER / BRIDGE NOTE: River and/or Bridge effects apply only on the FIRST round of Battle that occurs after the River/Bridge has been crossed. If blocks from both sides remain in the hex after the Battle, the River/Bridge effects do not apply to subsequent rounds of Battle fought in the hex, even if other blocks move into the hex via River or Bridge. The effects "resume" when only one side controls the hex and it is again entered by enemy blocks crossing a River/Bridge.

(In a Unit Type, the Defender fires first, unless Card play changes order.)

Terrain	Total MPs to Enter/Cross	Battle Sequence / Terrain Effects
Clear	One (1) MP (Did you cross a Bridge or River?)	1) Defender Armor / Attacker Armor; 2) Defender Mechanized / Attacker Mechanized; 3) Defender Infantry / Attacker Infantry
City	One (1) MP (Did you cross a Bridge or River?)	1) Defender Inf & Mech; 2) Attacker Inf & Mech; 3) Defender Armor; 4) Attacker Armor. *Air / Artillery Strikes affected as indicated on their card.
Forest	One (1) MP (Did you cross a Bridge or River?)	1) Defender Infantry* (*All Def. Inf. blocks roll one extra die at Battle Rating.); 2) Attacker Infantry; 3) Defender Mechanized / Attacker Mechanized; 4) Defender Armor / Attacker Armor. *Air / Artillery Strikes affected as indicated on their card.
* River	Two (2) MP to enter hex via non-Bridged River hexside	1) Defender Inf & Mech*; 2) Attacker Inf & Mech; 3) Defender Armor*; 4) Attacker Armor. *All Defender blocks roll one extra die at Battle Rating
* Bridge (including Pontoon Bridges from Event Card)	One (1) MP to enter hex via Bridged River hexside	Same sequence as RIVER above, but: *Only one (1) Defender block (owner choice) rolls one extra die at Battle Rating
Marsh